Many like to post about a first successful ferment (or first all grain mash), or first still built/bought or first good run of the still. Tell us about all of these great times here.
Pics are VERY welcome, we drool over pretty copper
Lookin good M26, off to a great start.. Remember to leave some room for the cappilary action for solder on the slant plates.
I cut the slots with the template then added another hacksaw blade to the saw (2 blades) and cut it again. Gave me just enough clearance
so that I did'nt need to hammer them in. I could slip the blades into the slots using very little pressure...
You can also use sandpaper to do this, just takes a little longer....
+1 braz, the coil I think is the hardest part of the entire build.
You just gotta luv the simplicity of the Bokakob...
I used a bit of 16mm curtain rod for the inner coil and some 32mm Elec conduit slipped over the inner coil to wind the outer coil. Also wound the 1/4" copper tubing with some circular elec cable about the same size as the copper tubing to keep the pitch even. Got the info of how to do it off this site, makes the job nice and neat and easy to do.
I have ordered some Tri-clamp ferrules, clamp and seal and needle valve from the U.S.A. to help complete the job. These parts are hard to find here and at a good price. Wish I new where to get those copper 2" threaded to pipe solder fittings, can only get brass here in Australia.
I used a bit of 16mm curtain rod for the inner coil and some 32mm Elec conduit slipped over the inner coil to wind the outer coil. Also wound the 1/4" copper tubing with some circular elec cable about the same size as the copper tubing to keep the pitch even. Got the info of how to do it off this site, makes the job nice and neat and easy to do.
Looks like nice round tube all the way through. Did you use filler (salt/sand/water etc) in the tubing to prevent flattening?
Also, I presume you bent the inner tail up to insert/remove the outer mandrel (32mm Elec conduit), and then re-bent it back down flat... Yes?
Looks like nice round tube all the way through. Did you use filler (salt/sand/water etc) in the tubing to prevent flattening?
Also, I presume you bent the inner tail up to insert/remove the outer mandrel (32mm Elec conduit), and then re-bent it back down flat... Yes?
Use any annealing?
No filler used, just bought annealed tube and keep it rolled up while rolling the coil. Yes bent the inner tail up to remove the 32mm conduit. After the photo was taken I annealed the tails with a propane touch to bend them in closer together.
crazyk78 wrote:Hey Mozz, I'm from Aus also and I know how hard it is to find copper stuff unless you want to pay an arm and a leg.
How much 1/4" tubing did you need to do that condensor?
Oh also, where did you get your 1/4" from? How much was it. Cheapest I can find is $40 for 18m coil.
I need to do one exactly the same. Might need to get your phone number and have a chat.
Cheers.
I used about 2.5m for my 7" coil. I just wound a 8" coil for another Aus member on this site which used a bit over 3m of tubing. I bought my tubing from Reece plumbing, not cheap at $9.20/m. $40 for 18m is very cheap.
That coil is beautiful !
I tried three times (thin wall was all I could find) and failed each time.
Wound up just doing a shotgun, came out pretty good, so, I'm happy,
but, I sure ain't a coil winder, for sure ........
It is not the matter, nor, the space between the matter,
but rather, it is that finite point at which the two meet,
that, and only that, is what is significant...........
(Of course, I could be wrong) ..........
Welcome Mozzie26. Don't know your background but you were around the learning curve and off to the races 'fore we even learned your name. That's some real nice work you got there. Seeing how HookLine has gotten out of the coil winding down in Oz looks like there'll be a more than adequate replacement.
WalkingWolf wrote:Welcome Mozzie26. Don't know your background but you were around the learning curve and off to the races 'fore we even learned your name. That's some real nice work you got there. Seeing how HookLine has gotten out of the coil winding down in Oz looks like there'll be a more than adequate replacement.
If the demand is there I could make some, I would need 5 people interested, but I do not want to be making 100's of them . It would work out cheaper if I buy an 18m roll of tubing. I have found a roll for $55. Local plumbing suppliers want $120 plus for 18m. I could do them for about $30 including post in Aus.
Last edited by mozzie26 on Wed Jul 07, 2010 8:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mozzie or anyone else who has had successful coiling experiences. (hopefully Hookline picks up on this post)
Firstly..I've read posts where people say to fill the 1/4 with salt or fine sand. Tell me, how the hell do you fill a coiled pancake of 1/4 with salt that is 3m long?
Anyways, that's not what I really want to discuss but it always baffled me.
More to my post question. I have read the number of coil winding post but wanted to ask some specific questions.
When you are starting the first coil around the mandrel do you anneal the pipe? If you do anneal it, doesn't it make it soft and cause it to flatten out?
When you get to the end (and assume I'm doing a double coil) and you want to start the outer coil do you anneal the coil before bending it back on itself to start the outer coil?
So in essence the top and tail are annealed.
Also just a bit of info for others because I've read that it's best if the copper is work hardened for these condensers, what you can do is anneal it all and get it hot and drop it into cold water. This will change the structure of the copper and make it hard.
No need to pack with salt for 1/4" 0.9mm tubing. The tubing comes annealed already. Make sure you keep it coiled up in the roll when winding the coil. The more you bend it the harder it gets and the harder it will be to make a nice neat coil.
I use a piece of 16mm curtain rod(you could use 16mm chrome or stainless towel rail or similar) clamped to the bench with about 300mm sticking out to wind the coil on. Start with about 6" of tail at 45 Degs to the 16mm rod and clamp this to the edge of the table. Hold it tight and pull the roll of copper around the rod until you have gone around the rod once. Adjust the gap between the coil to 1/4". I use a piece of round (circular) elec cable like thin diameter extension lead and wrap this around in between the copper coil and keeping it 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn in front of the copper tubing. Keep wraping the copper coil and cable around the rod keep firm pressure as you wrap. The first wrap is the hardest but once you get going it is easier. Once you have the first coil to length(6-8") take the clamps off holding the rod and coil to the benchand and remove the electrcal cable. Now straighten the tail so it is inline with the inner 16mm rod. Now for the second layer I use a 250mm(10")long piece of 32mm electrical conduit and slip it over the 16mm rod tail and slide it down over the inner coil(use a bit of soapy water to make it slide easier)Keep this longer than the coil so you have something to hold when slipping it off later. Now gentley start winding the second coil, get the first coil started the use the electrical cable to keep the spacing even and tight. Continue winding to the required lenght and pull the final tail up at 45 degs and cut the remaining leftover off. Now remove the electrical cable and slide the 32mm pipe off using soapy water then slide the 16mm rod out.
You will require about 9' (2.7m) for a 6"(150mm) or a bit over 10' (3.0m) for a 8" (200mm) coil. Don't go any longer as you will start getting water flow problems(6" coil is suppose to be pleny).
Titus-a-fishus wrote:Only say that since I was quoted $135 from Reese plumbing in Nth Qld
Reece plumbing are the most expensive suppliers unless you have a trade account, try Trade Link, as long as you look the part, the will give you trade price without an account.
Titus-a-fishus wrote:Only say that since I was quoted $135 from Reese plumbing in Nth Qld
Reece plumbing are the most expensive suppliers unless you have a trade account, try Trade Link, as long as you look the part, the will give you trade price without an account.
OD
Thanks OD I'll give them a shot
Actually use to work for an aircon firm... and still use the uniforms
TAF
We haven't got the money so now we have to think
Build it, don't buy it
I won a 18 meter roll on ebay (55.00 including postage) and got another part roll today at the scrap merchant (it is brand new with fingerprints the only mark on it). I am in Brisbane and go up the coast to visit friends a fair bit.
The scrap merchent is going to keep an eye out for me for 50 mm- it is sold by weight $7.70 Aus a kg, I got a short length of 50 mm (about 2 ft with a bed at the end which has a flange) but it is to short for my colum.
How about you roll me three coils and you can have the rest of the 18 meter coil that is left over?
Ok I have ordered some tubing. When it gets here I will wind some coils and offer them for sale, First to those that have expressed interest then any left over to any one else.
I've asked around and all the suppliers down here sell 1/4 annealed coil in 0.81mm wall. Not sure what grade your 0.9mm wall is but is it for air conditioning / refrigeration?