Shinners Flute build.

[Kentucky shinner]

Ok I finished my plates and downcomer assembly tonight. I have taken several pics because I know spooky is watching to see how I am doing this. He may be able to come up with some better ideas. I decided to go with the holes in the plates instead of the bubble plate. Mainly because this was a little easier I think.

[Kentucky shinner]

here is one I forgot. Drill a 1/4" hole in the center to hold all plates in place.

[olddog]

Did you put a J bend in the bottom downcomer, to prevent the vapor from the boiler going up the tube.?

OD

[ScottishBoy]

You have to look pretty close at the bottom of the picture, but it looks like he did.

[Mr.Spooky]

man,, that looks great! very impressive. is there holes where the collection caps are? could you post an upside down pic of the assembley?
thanks

[Kentucky shinner]

Yep I bent the bottom downcomer up. No I did not drill for the cups. I need to say thanks to Olddog for the template to drill the plates. That made this job much easier.

[Kentucky shinner]

Yep I bent the bottom downcomer up. No I did not drill for the cups. I need to say thanks to Olddog for the template to drill the plates. That made this job much easier.

I had to anneal the bottom tube to turn it up.

[LWTCS]

Bout time this movie got started!

I already ate up all my popcorn and drank all my sody pop waitin on the trailers to finish and the main event to start.

All most asked for a refund. But thankfully we are under way


WTG Kentuc

[Samohon]

Lookin good KS and very neat work... Just a few questions man...
1) What is the distance between the plates or are they placed equidistant to length of 4" used?
2) Can the plate assembly be removed for cleaning, once completed?
3) I take it that the downcomers carry distilate to the cups on the bottom, overflowing to the plates, is this correct?
4) Does the center tube help in flashing the vapor as in a ponu build, or could an SS threaded rod with nuts be used instead?

Keep going man, this is great stuff....

[Kentucky shinner]

Lookin good KS and very neat work... Just a few questions man...
1) What is the distance between the plates or are they placed equidistant to length of 4" used?
yes they are 4" apart
2) Can the plate assembly be removed for cleaning, once completed?
I am still thinking about that. I want to come up with a way mount them so they can be removed. Any ideas are welcomed.
3) I take it that the downcomers carry distilate to the cups on the bottom, overflowing to the plates, is this correct?
dowcomers carry distillite down to the cups and then it overflows on the plate yes.
4) Does the center tube help in vapour transferance, could a SS threaded rod with nuts be used instead?
The center tube just hold the plates in place

I am taking notes as this build progresses KS....

Keep going man, this is great stuff....

Thanks Bro

[Samohon]

Thanks for the speedy post (reply) bro...
It's amazing how I thought OD's Magic Flute was way outside my build zone a few months ago, only to re-visit this design with a more confident outlook on building it...

Thanks again KS... and keep the piccies commin...

[LWTCS]

I recon a stainless steel axis will work well. But I also recon a copper axis will offer better thermal transfer.

[rad14701]

I was under the impression that the holes should comprise 30% of the plate surface area for optimal performance... That's why I came up with the idea of adjustable perforated plates - to come up with an ideal figure for that percentage...

[Kentucky shinner]

Same here Samohon, The first time I laid eyes on Olddogs flute I thought I will never have anything that cool. It aint done yet though. I am trying to decide on the placement of the second set of sight glasses. I think instead of placing them 180 deg. I am going to put them 90 deg so the light wont blind me when I am looking inside. What do you guys think. Im looking for ideas from others through this whole build.
Kentucky shinner

[Kentucky shinner]

I was under the impression that the holes should comprise 30% of the plate surface area for optimal performance... That's why I came up with the idea of adjustable perforated plates - to come up with an ideal figure for that percentage...

Hey rad I like the idea of adjustable plates. I figure I can always go back and upgrade if we come up with a good solution to the adjustable idea. I used the template for the holes that olddog used. I see the results he is getting with his and felt pretty confident I would be happy with that as well. Olddog did however use 5 plates where as I am only using 4. I guess I will just have to wait and see. If I see that at some point I am not happy with the performance I will take her apart and rebuild. .

[rad14701]

I wasn't suggesting using the adjustable plates, I was just curious about the seemingly low percentage of perforation area...

[Kentucky shinner]

I wasn't suggesting using the adjustable plates, I was just curious about the seemingly low percentage of perforation area...

I totally understand I appreciate the comment. I would like to try the adjustable plates though. I have been watching that thread and doing some thinking on my own. Everytime I think I have a design that would work I think of some reason it wont...
If we all keep working on it I think we will finally come to a design we all agree will work.
Brain storming man, I know there is a way...

[Kentucky shinner]

Here is the template that olddog sent me that he used on his build so if anyone wants to use it they can download it. I dont think OD will mind.

[WalkingWolf]

Good work KS. Keep the progress reports coming.

WW

[Samohon]

Same here Samohon, The first time I laid eyes on Olddogs flute I thought I will never have anything that cool. It aint done yet though. I am trying to decide on the placement of the second set of sight glasses. I think instead of placing them 180 deg. I am going to put them 90 deg so the light wont blind me when I am looking inside. What do you guys think. Im looking for ideas from others through this whole build.
Kentucky shinner

How would the incorporation of mini-LED lights fit into the design with the sight glasses KS?
Some of thoses mini-LED torches come shrouded in stainless steel... I gotta look into this...

Just a thought bro...

[rednose]

Hey Larry, brought new popcorn, anybody wants a beer?

[LWTCS]

Hey Larry, brought new popcorn, anybody wants a beer?

Hehe, Thanks Joe.

Don't mind if I do.

[Mr.Spooky]

Here is the template that olddog sent me that he used on his build so if anyone wants to use it they can download it. I dont think OD will mind.

thanks,,, i was just about to ask.

[nodor]

rad14701
I've been wondering the same thing ( hole percentage)
I calc the percentage at about 3%
30 % should be about 300 holes.
Maybe I'm missing something here.

[Barney Fife]

I think I'd put the second sight glass at 45 degrees from the other, so that the light is going into the column in almost the same direction you're looking, for the reason you state(IE: you'll just blind yourself if you have them 180 degrees apart). Even at 90 degrees, you'd still get a good bit of light coming back to your eyes. Fixing some permanent lights to the sight glasses should be simple enough, with LED and whatnot type of lights that are available today! Just a LED or two on the outside of the sight glass glass, and a cover of some sort(more copper!) with just a hole and rubber grommet to let the wire run through. Hit the switch, and there she be; all lit up!

Scored a NOS, 36" long piece of 3" copper DWV yesterday; watching this thread closely, and going back over OD's and LW's threads from this past winter/spring. Not sure which way I'll go yet, or if I'll strike out on my own and try another avenue, just to see, since I can always come back to these proven performers if I fail

[Barney Fife]

A 4" plate has an area of 50.26 square inches, and 29 holes(as on the template) at 1/8" each is only 0.355 sq.in.(0.0227 sq.in. each hole) To get 30% of the plate area, we want a total area of 15 sq.in. of holes, therefor needing 660 holes.

I think the 30% number is incorrect. 3% of 50.26 sq.in. is 1.5 sq.in., which would be 66 holes, which makes more sense.

But, I haven't studied and read up on these plate columns like OD has, so let's wait for him to return...

[Mr.Spooky]

A 4" plate has an area of 50.26 square inches, and 29 holes(as on the template) at 1/8" each is only 0.355 sq.in.(0.0227 sq.in. each hole) To get 30% of the plate area, we want a total area of 15 sq.in. of holes, therefor needing 660 holes.

I think the 30% number is incorrect. 3% of 50.26 sq.in. is 1.5 sq.in., which would be 66 holes, which makes more sense.

But, I haven't studied and read up on these plate columns like OD has, so let's wait for him to return...

Hi,

When you say 4" plate, you mean 4" in diameter? If so, it means 2" is the radius (r). The area of a circle is A= "P"x r x r. So it will be A = 3.14 x 2 x 2. It will be 12.56 squre inches. Is this correct? Or am I wrong? How did you come up wiht the 50.26 square inches area?

[Kentucky shinner]

Same here Samohon, The first time I laid eyes on Olddogs flute I thought I will never have anything that cool. It aint done yet though. I am trying to decide on the placement of the second set of sight glasses. I think instead of placing them 180 deg. I am going to put them 90 deg so the light wont blind me when I am looking inside. What do you guys think. Im looking for ideas from others through this whole build.
Kentucky shinner

How would the incorporation of mini-LED lights fit into the design with the sight glasses KS?
Some of thoses mini-LED torches come shrouded in stainless steel... I gotta look into this...

Just a thought bro...

He I would love that. If you find a supplier for those post the link.

[Samohon]

A 4" plate has an area of 50.26 square inches, and 29 holes(as on the template) at 1/8" each is only 0.355 sq.in.(0.0227 sq.in. each hole) To get 30% of the plate area, we want a total area of 15 sq.in. of holes, therefor needing 660 holes.

I think the 30% number is incorrect. 3% of 50.26 sq.in. is 1.5 sq.in., which would be 66 holes, which makes more sense.

But, I haven't studied and read up on these plate columns like OD has, so let's wait for him to return...

Hi,

When you say 4" plate, you mean 4" in diameter? If so, it means 2" is the radius (r). The area of a circle is A= "P"x r x r. So it will be A = 3.14 x 2 x 2. It will be 12.56 squre inches. Is this correct? Or am I wrong? How did you come up wiht the 50.26 square inches area?

Thats what I thought Spook. Area = pi r squared....

How important is the 30% hole coverage on the plate? OD's is not 30% covered in 1/8th holes, yet he's getting great results from the flute.
Does it really matter, or is the 30% figure more like 3%?

This is a great thread....

[Samohon]

Same here Samohon, The first time I laid eyes on Olddogs flute I thought I will never have anything that cool. It aint done yet though. I am trying to decide on the placement of the second set of sight glasses. I think instead of placing them 180 deg. I am going to put them 90 deg so the light wont blind me when I am looking inside. What do you guys think. Im looking for ideas from others through this whole build.
Kentucky shinner

How would the incorporation of mini-LED lights fit into the design with the sight glasses KS?
Some of thoses mini-LED torches come shrouded in stainless steel... I gotta look into this...
Just a thought bro...

He I would love that. If you find a supplier for those post the link.

Was in Maplins/Radio Shack this affo. Guy say's they do a krypton Super Bright LED encased in glass with an SS threaded shoulder...
Did'nt have any in stock, but I'm still lookin KS...

I'll keep ya posted bro...