Building a Twin slant plate stick still for a member figured I would document.
Anyone whos interested in one PM me and I will see what I can do for you.
The build:
A 50" total length still
36" of column for copper packing fit with a easy flange bottom for keg mounting.
12" of condenser space for a cold finger condenser
2" of twin slant plates with take off and temp port sandwiched between
Photos below
Here is the "blank" ,50" of 2" with the easy flange on the bottom for keg mount
Here is my jig box for the builds Has the slant plate slots and the pilot holes setup for take off and temp port
The jig box set up on the 2" blank Lets take her to the band-saw cut some slant plate slots
A closer look at the jig box setup on the pipe
A view of the pilot hole ready to drill the take-off tube location Flip the jig over and drill a pilot for the temp port
Daddy used, to say " Any landing you can walk away from is a good one"
Calculations don't mean shit when compared to the real world practical experience of many...RAD 9/2010
The temp port side of the jig All holes and slots are now cut Remove the jig
Here is a shot of the slots cut in the pipe Holes are now 1/8" and need to be opened to the correct size I use a "step drill"
This is a closeup of the working part of the column The standoff on the take-off tube is solid copper #4 grounding wire The temp port is flared after attachment and a cork inserted, I put a nail in to hold till the owner can insert his temp probe
Here she is all done up for the party Will build a condenser next Also the option of cutting the column and adding a coupling at the base for easier mounting
Daddy used, to say " Any landing you can walk away from is a good one"
Calculations don't mean shit when compared to the real world practical experience of many...RAD 9/2010
Things the bomb slip on the pipe wedge for tightness and go to town, two cuts, two holes, 5 min.
The band-saw works magic too since copper is non-ferrous and can be cut with a nice thin wood blade.
Daddy used, to say " Any landing you can walk away from is a good one"
Calculations don't mean shit when compared to the real world practical experience of many...RAD 9/2010
Very well documented build, still crazy... The only thing missing is installing the plates and tubes, which some think is tricky even though it's easier than they think... I'm sure the recipient of this column will enjoy years of use with it...
Daddy used, to say " Any landing you can walk away from is a good one"
Calculations don't mean shit when compared to the real world practical experience of many...RAD 9/2010
all around great stuff. design, planning, jig, fabrication, documentation. killer. the dump valve on the parrot has proven to be one of my favorite additions to a "standard" setup. i'd consider it a must now. makes switching collection containers super easy and lets you drop heads/foreshots without running it through the good hole.
i keep talking my friends into getting into the hobby, a lot of them don't have the tools or skills to make something like this...how much do you charge for a rig like this one?
Final photos
Boxed for shipping
Like sending a kid off
Daddy used, to say " Any landing you can walk away from is a good one"
Calculations don't mean shit when compared to the real world practical experience of many...RAD 9/2010
I am new at this so I am not sure where to ask this question. But here I go. I like the idea of building the parrot onto the side of the column (Liquorice Stick) my question is: if the out put cup on the top is a 3/4" to 1 1/4" reducer (which is what I used) the actual stem of the parrot is 3/4 " can I put a 1 1/4" pipe over the whole thing to act as a water jacket and use a branch of my cooling line to cool the actual parrot or is that liable to change the measurement of my alcohol content. I would put a valve on the input water cooler line to regulate flow and hopefully temperature. Also should I put a T on the bottom where the recently distilled product enters the parrot from the bottom both to drain off the foreshots and also empty the finished product still remaining in the parrot back toward the finished product holding container when the run is complete? I notice if I slip a 1 1/4" pipe up against the widest part of the 1 1/4" x 3/4" reducer with the 3/4" end sticking back in the pipe it almost makes a flush fitting and I think I could make a perfect solder connection. I will have to come up with a bottom connection but I can build any of this, but in conclusion if I cool the actual parrot stem will that have adverse effects. I only want to build this once and I want it as perfect as I can get it. Thank you in advance for your comments and thoughts. I am sure If I build this I can eventually determine if this will work but for now I would like to not have to learn everything by trial and error. I can also draw this up and put in through my scanner if everybody has a problem understanding my convoluted question.
You can cool your distillate as it come out.
Any reading you take with an alcohol meter has to be corrected for temperature.
The method you envisioned will work.
On my personal still I ran my output line along a liebig on the VM portion of the still.
This cools the distillate prior to entering the parrot.
Daddy used, to say " Any landing you can walk away from is a good one"
Calculations don't mean shit when compared to the real world practical experience of many...RAD 9/2010
Excellent. I just took two 8" stub outs, cut 2" inches off each one (giving me a total of 12" including the coupler. Cut a 1/4" hole at each end. Ran a 1/4" tube through, wrapped it with 12/2 copper wire and added 1/4" in-flow and out-flow stubs at each end on opposite side on the 1/2" stub outs. I will tap off the coolant water. Hopefully it will keep the product cool when it enters the parrot. My plan is to attach the product cooler (maybe you could call it a mini liebig) to the column and then attach the the parrot to the mini liebeg. I am flying by the seat of my pants here as I am just trying to build things based on the different designs I have seen so far all on these posts. I also cut my slant plates today from the the template but they seem to be maybe a little of the small side. I am going to make them bigger so they over hang the column and then grind off the excess. Oh I love this shit. I am going to have a great looking still, who the hell knows if it will work, but I am going to have a great time building it regardless. I spent a couple of hours today in a plumbing supply place fondling the parts, not as good as the real thing but still a boat load of enjoyment.
just brilliant, thinking outside the still...hahaha. Hope you dont mind, im gonna use some of these fabulous ideas on my build. That parrot valve is genius. Think its a must have, both time and contamination of sorts to the hearts...
Of course I will give credit where credit is due...just not right to not give it.
6
Total Abstinence is the way to handle the Alcohol Problem...circa 1891
engraved on a water fountain in the town I was born...
Finally, I found this a while back, then ended up building a box like yours from memory. Turned out alright, but wasn't sure i trusted it. After researching for this thread for a week, I FINALLY re-discovered it! Woo WHOO! and its just in time because i have all day tomorrow to build my boka!
