Brass Valves

BB48ss · Post by **BB48ss** » Mon May 09, 2011 8:47 am

Hi All,
This is my first post here but I know it will be a contentious one....

The consensus seems to be that brass is not a preferred material for stills because of the possible lead content. However, as I look through pictures of stills, inluding those built by admins/moderators/experts I still see brass, particularly for tube fittings and valves. I'm specifically talking about fittings/valves in distillate liquid/vapor service, I am ignoring any that are on the cooling water side. So what gives?

My current setup has two brass needle valves (reflux return to column and product take off) and a couple of other random brass bits and pieces (unions, nipples, etc.) I can get rid of the nipples with a little bit of redesign, I can solder over the exposed brass on the unions, but the needle valves are proving to be particularly troublesome (read: expensive) to get rid of. 1/4" needle valves in SS are ~$70 versus $10-$20 for a brass needle valve so I have a very strong incentive to go with brass. However, I don't need to be any dumber than I already am so I'd like to eliminate any potential sources of lead if it is really a problem. How many of you are using brass needle valves? I could replace the reflux valve with a SS ball valve ($25) because it only needs to be on/off but the product take-off valve needs to be a needle valve. Perhaps a needle valve with a carbon steel body and SS needle ($25) instead of an all SS valve?

Thoughts?
-B

Post by **rad14701** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:27 am

Most here pickle their brass, sometimes periodically, to remove potential lead from the brass... Large fittings can be tinned with solder for a more permanent solution...

Post by **Usge** » Mon May 09, 2011 10:44 am

Also, some of those brass valves are used on water circulation...not distillate

EDIT: Sorry BB, missed that in your post

violentblue · Post by **violentblue** » Mon May 09, 2011 7:24 pm

you can source lead free brass valves as well. a little harder to find and a few dollars more, but they're out there

BB48ss · Post by **BB48ss** » Tue May 10, 2011 5:12 am

As I mentioned in my post, I am ignoring the valves on the water side... I have seen some lead free brass but I'm wondering if that is what most people are doing or are they simply pickling?

jake_leg · Post by **jake_leg** » Tue May 24, 2011 7:32 am

There's at least on e thread on this topic in the safety section.

Nickel plated and "lead free" (actually 0.5% lead) brass are preferable to the usual kind (typically red brass with at least 2% lead). What lead there is in it will still leach preferentially and might contribute off flavours if you don't pickle.

BB48ss · Post by **BB48ss** » Tue May 24, 2011 8:21 am

Any thoughts on using a valve with a carbon steel body and a stainless steel needle? I would want to take it off after use and make sure it is clean and dry to prevent rust during storage but should I expect any off flavors? I don't think there is much that can leach out of steel...?

-B

jake_leg · Post by **jake_leg** » Sun May 29, 2011 6:17 pm

Don't think so, the problem is rust as you mention.

Manback · Post by **Manback** » Sun May 29, 2011 7:06 pm

Why do you need a return to column valve as well as a take off valve? Is it so you got like RLM and LM?

johnhopper1957 · Post by **johnhopper1957** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 7:40 pm

Does anyone know a supplier of lead free brass or stainless needle valves in 1/4 or 3/8? I'm looking for something that's reasonably priced, I have heard you can get lead free ones for around $10.00 - $15.00

Thanks

Post by **Prairiepiss** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 7:56 pm

Lead free is doesn't always mean lead free. It means it meets the standard in that location to be considered lead free. Depending where the standard is set determines how much lead can be in it. And from what I have seen. Most if not all still have an allowed amount. It mite be a minute amount. But its still there. So even if you bought a lead free brass valve from someone you can trust. That's a big IF. I would still pickle it. Just to be safe.

If your that worried about it just go with the stainless steel. I've seen a few good deals on eBay for SS valves.

Post by **Coaster** » Fri Aug 05, 2011 2:19 pm

@ johnhopper195,

A couple of places to check for stainless steel needle valves are listed below.

McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com

Grainger Industrial Supply http://www.grainger.com

eBay http://www.ebay.com

Google Search http://www.google.com

Regards,
Coaster

johnhopper1957 · Post by **johnhopper1957** » Fri Aug 05, 2011 4:40 pm

Thanks PP and Coaster, I found the Anderson ones on ebay and they look to be lead free, I googled them and found them for $5.00 US which is awsome. Only problem is they don't ship to Australia

How hard would it be to put a couple in a postpack and send? Customer service is dead these days, I'ld buy 10 if they'ld send them. Ebay they want about $22.00 each including shipping for one, one wanted $43.00 for shipping alone - for a needle valve???????

Also found nickle plated ones which I'm not 100% sure about, there is nickle in stainless steel.....

Thanks for replies

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