PVC for Liebig?

[100percent]

I have already put it together but I wanted to ask opinions on the use of PVC and my sizing. 32" of 2" PVC capped on both ends with 1/2" copper all the way through. Silicon sealing jacket(pvc)to copper pipe. Then 5/8" inlet and outlet for a circulating water pump system.

Should that be enough cooling for my 15.5gal keg pot still. Going to use a turkey fryer for my heat source. All is ready probably going to do a vinegar and water run tomorrow or Monday.

Lmk

[Prairiepiss]

Should work. But that sucker will be heavy when its full of water. You mite need to support it some how.

[Coaster]

@ 100percent,

I believe you could obtain the same cooling from your Liebig using 1 ½” PVC instead of 2” PVC.

Regards,
Coaster

[100percent]

1.5 would probably work a little better but i had 2'' stuff laying around and decided to use it. I would really like to make a worm type condenser but this was better for the budget right now. Im sure as long as i keep the water cool and moving it will work fine. I do plan on making a leg for support. I also plan on packing my still head as that should aid condensing as well as some reflux.

[seaguy]

You can save a little money but the reason a liebig(sp?) is typically all metal is so the housing can give off heat as well. The pvc is a good insulator. At least use cpvc..it's thinner.

[100percent]

Well my PVC unit is already made. The circulating water and volume of water should easily condense my vapor. I should know tomorrow

[seaguy]

It will work as long as the cooling water remains fairly cool. I have to recirculate cause my water is a little pricey.

[rad14701]

If you can get away without having leaks due to differing expansion rates then use whatever you want for the outer wall of the liebig... I know several people have had a terrible time keeping a liebig made from disparate materials sealed...

[myles]

Well my PVC unit is already made. The circulating water and volume of water should easily condense my vapor. I should know tomorrow

This isn't really a valid comment. If I read this right (and I may have it wrong) you have a 1/2" straight vapour path (Liebig) inside a 2" jacket. If this is the case then length for length there is no difference between a 1/2" inside 3/4" and what you propose. Except for weight. Limiting factor is the surface area of cold copper. Unless of course you mean a graham, with a coiled 1/2" vapour path inside your 2" jacket.

The increased volume of water is imaterial UNLESS you are going for slow flow rates - perhaps gravity feed from a header tank? Did you run the condenser size calculator against your power input?

[100percent]

I agree with u on surface area and etc. However I was thinking that a large volume of water circulating would stay cooler longer than a small volume of water. The 2" jacket was simply because it was something I already had on hand.

I ran my still yesterday and it ran great. The water stayed cool for about 1-1/2 hrs and then rapidly got warmer. It still was condensing my vapor but maybe less efficiently. I have since frozen some plastic gallon jugs that I will bust and add if the temp starts to rise. I was running a 10gallon wash when it got warm, tomorrow I'm running a 4 gallon wash and I'm hoping it is a bit quicker and stays cool longer. I am also planning on making a worm in the near future.

The PVC seems to perform well though. I did make a leg to support the weight.

[Bull Rider]

For what it's worth, I've built worms and I've built leibegs, and I seldom use the worm. But try both and see which one you prefer.


Bull.

[100percent]

I might stay with a Liebig after my run today. Added a scrubber and it helped alot and I think my vapor was actually steam. I may alter my Liebig some but it works well.

[Prairiepiss]

If its steam coming out of your liebig then it is vapors. Water vapors and alcohol vapors are combined at that point. So anything that comes out of the still as vapors (steam) should be considered alcohol laden vapors. And very dangerous and wasteful. The heat needs to be turned down if it happens.

[100percent]

Sounds good. I'm also planning on putting a scrubber or part of a scrubber towards the end of my Liebig. I am also planning on making it turn down because right now it is running just slightly down hill. I feel like if it turned down the vapor would have a harder time getting out before condensing.

[myles]

If the cooling water is getting too warm towards the end of the run, all it means is that either you don't have enough water in the system, or that it is starting out too warm. You can easily connect up another reservoir to your current one if you have the space, just join them together a foot or so below the surface level and have the pump in one and the return line going into the other.

Another alternative is a fan assisted radiator in the return line to try and shift some heat into the air. There are other options too.

I changed my hoses to rigid plastic after they kinked once when the coolant got a bit too warm and shut off the flow to the condenser. You need to watch for that if you run with warm coolant.

[100percent]

built a 42'' copper unit a week or so ago, its about 48'' of 1/2'' with a 42''x3/4'' jacket. No more vapors and as far as the water warming up, it really only does it when i turn the heat up, if i run it slow it isnt as bad, also i have been freezing jugs of water and i will add them to the resevoir as needed.