My New Small Scale Combo Still

[bamaspearo]

A newbie that been doing a lot of reading. I originally planned to build a simple pot still and then a boka, but after much thought I have decided to just build a version of your design because it looks like is much easier to build and has great reviews. I plan to use 2 inch pipe with 1 inch reducer with a tee and 3/8 take off.

The main concern I had was that the spirit was coming off at a higher than desired temperature. Was planning on making a coil out of 10 feet of 1/4 with a ½ inch cold finger. Do you think this will be enough??

Am I better off going to 1.25 for the reduction?

Thank you for sharing …. A very good thread!!!!!

[ptech]

Rad,how exactly do you create a seal between the SS bowl & the stock pot?
Tks,
Ptech

[holliday]

Well, the cold weather is upon us here in the NE US so it's time to hunker down for the winter season... I'll be spending a lot more time here at home, in my apartment, where I also work from... I wanted to be able to do some experimental recipe runs using a small scale still and the photos below show what I built... It still needs some work and a good spit-shine, but I've been happy with the initial results... I don't have any exact figures because the bulk of my equipment is stored elsewhere...

One reason behind this design stems from finding some scrap copper in a barrel at the back of a friends auto body shop... I told him how easy it would be to whip together into a still and he was somewhat skeptical... Now he's waiting for me to perfect this one so I can build one for him... I am currently looking for another 8-10 quart stock pot that will accept the stainless mixing bowl so I can use my 1500W element and controller... Test runs have all been done on an electric range with a metal plate for more consistent heat transfer...

When run in Pot Still/Stripper mode I fill the bottom of the column with marbles... It actually puts out almost the same high ABV in this mode as it does when using the stainless scrubber packed 18 inch reflux extension with a little tuning...

I've been very happy with the overall performance given the relatively small size... It provides me with more neutral spirit than I drink these days so it may end up being my primary still...













More Details:

The column consists of 1.25 inch and .75 inch copper... The reflux extension measures 18 inches...

The condenser section measures approximately 9 inches...

I used 1.25 inch couplers to mate components, partly because the local Big Box stores only carry 1.25 X .75 reducers rather than couplers...

The stainless bowl measures approximately 9.5 inches and has a stainless steel sink drain attached... It might look like the rubber gasket is an issue but flour paste between the mating surfaces keeps any ethanol from causing leaching...

When running in reflux mode the upper reducer is calibrated to hold only one ounce of condensate before overflowing back into the column... I use a loose slant plate to deflect condensate from going directly back down the column which allows easy cleaning...

I will be replacing the needle valve and also plan on incorporating a small secondary condenser using either .5 or .75 inch copper because the final product comes off far too warm for my liking...

The primary condenser coil measures in the 7.5 inch range and was fashioned from just under 5 feet of .25 inch copper tubing... Approximately one quart of water per minute is more than enough to knock down all vapor and exits at 82F...

What is the little tab in the third picture for and why kind of marbles do you use?

[rad14701]

A newbie that been doing a lot of reading. I originally planned to build a simple pot still and then a boka, but after much thought I have decided to just build a version of your design because it looks like is much easier to build and has great reviews. I plan to use 2 inch pipe with 1 inch reducer with a tee and 3/8 take off.

The main concern I had was that the spirit was coming off at a higher than desired temperature. Was planning on making a coil out of 10 feet of 1/4 with a ½ inch cold finger. Do you think this will be enough??

Am I better off going to 1.25 for the reduction?

Thank you for sharing …. A very good thread!!!!!

With 2" you can have a larger diameter cold finger... There is a calculator on the parent site for sizing... And I have one posted for calculating single and double helix copper length needs...

1" should suffice for the throat...

[rad14701]

Rad,how exactly do you create a seal between the SS bowl & the stock pot?
Tks,
Ptech

Flour Paste and Binder Clips...

[rad14701]

What is the little tab in the third picture for and why kind of marbles do you use?

That is a deflector plate that I use in place of a trimmed down inverted T fitting... It has been discussed elsewhere in this topic...

[Burks]

Edit: I answered my own questions through the Wiki.

Can't wait to try this design. It sort of encompasses everything I want to do all in one design.

[bamaspearo]

Rad,

I have a 2 inch version of your still but used a trimmed "T" on top of the 1 inch neck down. i have only made a few runs and i am a newbee so this may be "normal" but, have to ask the question. I am worrind that it may be refluxing to much due to restricted air flow. I have approximatly a 1/4 inch air/vapor gap on each side of the T. It is connected to the kettle with a 9 inch section of 2 inch pipe (whisky mode).

On both runs I tested the ABV and it started at 85% and after 2 hours it was still at at 25%. I am getting 6 pints out of a 5 gallon (1.065) wash.

The first run was corn and the second wheat, I can smell and taste a diference but was concerned that with a High ABV on the runs I was losing too much flavor.

Any advice or insite would be appreciated.

[Copper Thumper]

lookin good!

[rad14701]

<SNIP>

Any advice or insite would be appreciated.

If the gap between the Tee and the reflux chamber wall seems too small you could always trim it down a bit further but I doubt there should be a problem... The Tee's I've trimmed in the past have had ~1/4" overhang at the top and then tapered down to the bottom of the inverted Tee for better vapor flow...

The higher %ABV could be due to needle valve restriction or too slow of a take off rate... I wouldn't worry about what the first spirits out test, I'd be more concerned about the average of the main part of the run from late heads to early tails... My rig yields ~120 proof for that so I either don't dilute or only very marginally dilute down prior to drinking...

Hope this helps even though I'm a bit late in replying...

[Roundyround]

I birthed one of these today for my eldest son, thanks for sharing such a simple efficient design.

[fisherhahn]

Hi All,
New to the site and this is my first post other than my intro on the Welcome thread. Having been lurking around this site for at least a year, and decided this is likely the design I plan on for my first setup. I think I can answer the question about the deflector plate that I keep seeing...I think the question most are trying to ask, but not really asking, is what purpose the plate serves just lying in place? Why is it there? Same question I had, until I thought about what would happen if it wasn't there...After condensing, the alcohol could just drip straight back down and never get collected...by hitting the plate, soldered in place or just sitting there, it is forced into the collection area and either collected or refluxed. Without the plate you could end up in a coutinuous state of reflux...please correct me if I'm wrong. Great thread thanks to all who contributed!

[the fojizzle]

I am so new to this and would love to have a set up like this. Anyway I can pay you to build me one? I'm so lost putting one together. Thanks!!

[southern traditions]

Hey Rad,
A question for you or anyone else that can answer it. I've done my required reading but need to ask, in trying to use the copper I have on hand would it hurt anything to use 2 1/8"OD reduced down to 1 3/8 OD. I've got both on hand along with the needed fittings and really didn't want to have to buy any new fittings or pipe if I don't have to..


Thanks,
Martin

[buckwild1]

could this be done using only 1 reducer? Say run 2" to a 2x3 reducer to a length of 3 inch with the cooling coil in the 3"

Edit: I figured it out. both would be needed

[desertshiner]

This is my first response in the post, besides the welcome...
My question moves back to the details of running the "combo" in combo still. Just when I think I understand the differences between a pot still operation, and a column still operation, the two became a bit confused with this build. I've read thru this thread multiple times, and understand the construction, to the point I've drawn my own set of plans for my own 2" version. I've put together a Liebig for the take off, and used that construction as a primer and lesson in soldering.
So could I get a breakdown of how the two sections work independently, or intradependently? My understanding was that in pot still mode, the longer extension would be in place, with no packing, but would the reflux extension be there? I guess I didnt' connect the dots with how the vapor is knocked down in pot still mode? Would the top need to be capped in this mode? And then in reflux mode, my understanding was that Rad took out the longer extension and used it in this manner.
Please set me straight!

[rad14701]

Sorry about the delay in replying to questions here in this topic... I'll do my best to address them now...

@Roundyround

Keep us posted on how your sons version of this design is working...


@fisherhahn

You are correct in your interpretation that the deflection plate is intended to keep any reflux from falling straight back down through the vapor throat... The plate works so I've never changed to using another method, like a trimmed down T fitting...


@the fojizzle

PM me... I am in a position now to be able to produce parts or entire stills...


@southern traditions

One nice thing about this design is that you can mix and match copper sizes without effecting performance... I am pondering making a run to pick up some larger copper in the near future... I had a larger similar design that I used years ago...


@buckwild1

Yes, both reducers are needed... It can also be made with two cups/caps, or thinner test caps, instead of reducers to save a small amount of money...


@desertshiner

What I currently have is the condenser head, a short packed extension, and a long packed extension... For pot stilling I either run with no extension, or the short packed extension, with or without packing, if I want to monitor temperatures for statistical purposes when testing... In reflux mode I use both packed extensions, with the short one at the top for monitoring temperatures... I see now that none of the pictures posted show the thermometer port which is directly below the coupling on the short extension... When doing a pot still stripping run I remove the needle valve and use a butt connector in its place to eliminate unwanted reflux due to the small orifice in the 1/4" needle valve...


I hope this addresses everyone concerns... If not, ask away and I'll do my best to answer any remaining questions...

[buckwild1]

@buckwild1
Yes, both reducers are needed... It can also be made with two cups/caps, or thinner test caps, instead of reducers to save a small amount of money...
[/quote]
My thoughts when I first ask this was if you used 1 1/4" or 1 1/2"for the column then went to 3" for the condenser and collection head you could just use 1 reducer. But after thinking on it some, I realized the reflux would just run down the walls instead of dropping to the packing.

I would like to build this in 3" and 1 1/2" or 1 1/4" with a 1/2" take off. My goal is to be able to take it apart and have it look like some pipes stacked on a shelf. Also a liebig for pot use and product cooling

If building this with 3" how much wattage would be needed? 120v is all I have at this time. So I may end up using propane till I get a place to go with 240V

Would 2 55 gallon barrels be enough water for cooling? Running a 15 gallon pot. Was thinking 1 barrel for the coil and 1 for the liebig. I think adding a fan and radiator may be needed.

Also going that large would a double coiled cold finger be better? I have a couple thoughts here. Just a double coil with a cap in the center, at the top, to make sure the vapor gets directed at the coils instead of through the center. and wrapped in copper mesh. Also a cap added for just pot mode.

[southern traditions]

Just wanted to say thanks to Rad, I finished up the build of my still using this basic design. Even though I upsized the column. Here's a link to my version over in the " my still " section http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 50&t=36121

Thanks again,
Martin

[fisherhahn]

Anyone see any problems using 2" to 3/4" reducers for building this style still? I have some left over from a plumbing project and would love to just use them.
Thanks.

[jholt91]

Has anyone put a T on the smaller pipe purtuding in the condensing chamber? Maybe cut the under side of the arms above catch plate?

[rad14701]

Anyone see any problems using 2" to 3/4" reducers for building this style still? I have some left over from a plumbing project and would love to just use them.
Thanks.

2" x 1" reducer would be the minimum... 2" x 3/4" will flood and choke, as has been proven...

[lampshade]

Hi Rad,

Now that you have moved out of your apartment and into a house, do you have any plans for making a larger still?

[rad14701]

Hi Rad,

Now that you have moved out of your apartment and into a house, do you have any plans for making a larger still?

Not at this time... I have 2, 3, and 4 gallon stock pots, this column, a concentric head, and a concentric condenser that mounts on this still head in place of the coiled condenser... They make everything I can drink and more... My girlfriend drinks Kahlua and vodka, and I can provide both... Yes, this one knows about my distilling as does my ex now that we've parted ways, and both also make Kahlua now as well...

[lampshade]

Hi Rad, .... do you have any plans for making a larger still?

Not at this time...

That is a shame. I admire your quest for simplicity (not to be confused with simplistic) and am eagerly awaiting your next creation.

[coyojosh1]

Is that a nickel plated brass kitchen sink drain?

[ga flatwoods]

Coyojosh1, Your picture may be whatever you wish to call it. You know we only approve stainless steel as you have already been told. Are you attempting to "wise up" or be a wise ass? As you have posted this on Rad's posting i suspect the latter!
Ga Flatwoods

[rad14701]

Is that a nickel plated brass kitchen sink drain?

Mine is 100% stainless steel... I know safety so I know what to use where... It would serve you well to learn the same...

[Prairiepiss]

I smell troll.

[madmattie]

Hi Rad. I've been snooping around the forums here for some time and your rig is what I'm going to aim for for my first. I have no experience with any of this, but I'm hoping to come up with something worthwhile with a little T&E and patience. I've made beer and few times and (obviously) distillation is the next step...

I've read all of the posts here and it all sounds completely do-able. The one thing I'm unsure about is the SS to copper transition. I think I found the exact same SS sink drain that you're using:

My SS drain

It looks like you soldered the copper directly to the threaded locknut that comes with the drain. Is that brass? My small and feeble newb brain believes anything besides SS and copper in the vapor stream is the work of the devil.

Are you using the locknut straight up or is it something different, or coated in solder/copper? I can't tell from your pics - it looks a bit more shiny than mine, so maybe it's not even the same nut.

I've really enjoyed reading your posts all across HD. I appreciate the time you put in to help others!

Thanks for your help!