CM Still Output Improvement Mods Mile High / Brewhaus PSII.

[Prairiepiss]

Well as long as you understand a cm still is not the best neutral still. If you want to make a really good neutral its probably not the still for you. A VM or LM would be better for that. A cm still will however make a really nice vodka (hint of grainyness.) and flavored spirits.

It's really a sooped up pot still.

Now the through tubes would be the easiest to make. But they are the least efficient. So more tubes and their placement are needed. I use a coil in mine. And it works quite nicely. I have a jacketed condenser for mine I need to finish.

[cede]

I liked the design because it could be used as a pot still too.
I brew beer too, and whisky is close to beer process

But if I can get close to neutral too, would be great.

Now the through tubes would be the easiest to make. But they are the least efficient. So more tubes and their placement are needed. I use a coil in mine. And it works quite nicely. I have a jacketed condenser for mine I need to finish.

As I can see the tubes on the BH are about 6 and 7 inches from top and the vapor out to liebig condenser is about 2,25" from top.
This does not leave much space and allows only for a few turns coil.

Would shotgun condenser be an overkill ?

[Prairiepiss]

A shotgun is doable. Many use them on the plated columns (flutes). I have approx 4" of coil in mine made from around 8' of 1/4" tubing. It will knock down 3600 watts it so.

You will want a little space between the condenser and the takeoff point. But you don't have to follow the BH rigs measurements. 1 or 2 inches above is good.

Or you could make a jacketed condenser like a mile high still.

There are many ways to skin this cat.

[midcarolina]

I modified my pot still to a CM....... I have 3 through tubes under a jacketed condenser, works very well................

[cede]

Thanks for your answers. I've put that into background in my head
I think I will try to build one based on tri clover fittings for easy break appart of my enormous esspresso machine

[wcaseyb]

After talking with Rick at Brewhaus, he will make me a stainless 3"x24" pot still (they happen to have some longer pieces of 3" right now)with a 36" condenser for a 15.5 gallon sanke keg. It would be a little more than the Hillbilly Stills 2" copper pot still. I don't want reflux. If you had the choice, which would you choose? I assume the 3x24x36 could really put out some volume, but would it be overkill? Would the hillbilly stills 2" be more than enough for a keg running on propane? Would one get better product than the other?

Thanks, couldn't have gotten this far without all of the info here.

[Prairiepiss]

I think I would go with the Brewhaus.

[wcaseyb]

What do you think the main differences would be Prarie? You always seem to have good input, thanks!

[Prairiepiss]

Better separation at higher takeoff speeds. Add a copper scrubber or two. And it would be good to go.

[Brownegg]

so i got my order in from BH and i have to say it is nice. I work a month and then i am home for a month. the month away i just read here on HD. I just wanted to say i was very pleased with the BH still and the customer service etc. I am also greatful for everyone that has posted about the mods. Although most of them have already been made to the new 3 inch colum. I didnt get a centering ring although i may later because i didnt read about it prior to orderin. I have managed to do 3 or 4 runs not counting the 2 cleaning runs. I have had problems because #1 I dont know a thing bout what i am doin #2 never had any real shine #3 still learning to drive my still. I can say that i believe i am going to just run in pot mode and do a few stripping runs etc. Dont worry i will not ask do i leave packin in or not.. I know it has came up alot of times and is basically personal preferrence. I believe my issues were i may have had to much packing packed to tight and i also was driving to fast on take off. although all my runs i got 90%ABV out of so i reckon that was pretty good. I believe my next UJSSM will be pot still with out packing brought up slow drove slow. Believe i will stick with pot stilling till i figure it out a little.

[Prairiepiss]

Sounds like a good plan. UJSSM would-be better for pot still mode anyway.

Something like Birdwatchers or even all bran. Would be better for playing with the reflux mode.

Sounds like you have the right attitude. It only gets netters from here.

[fruitbat]

Like to say Hello again fruit bat here (first post were on new years eve bit buzzed sorry )I must say love this site tons of great info
Just stumbled on to the tread on cm stills (just starting first saw the turbo stomper site ordered supper excited may be too much luckily long lag time fortunately and he didn’t get it into the mail or maybe he was going to but after some research found other sites and cancelled my order went with a brew haus eepsII “still” learning but could have been worse could of ended up with the piece of s#$%t of a turbo stomper still perhaps the eepsII is not the best but has some versatility. I mostly so far use as a pot still 5x as pot and once as a fractioning column and think I have a better grasp on how that works now granted that I got good abv on a turbo the first go but didn’t run it in a true reflux manor.)All right to the point looking at these mods you all are describing 1st the rubber bung brew haus says it is all natural rubber bung still bad? Thread easiest fix all natural cork at top of still. 2nd would like to add the centering ring I have a 1 1/2 inch to 1 inch copper reducer what is the best way to flare it out pliers cut it to make like a star nut or ? brew haus also say that the tri clamp o rings are chemical tolerant do I need to replace then to. Last looking to get rid of the hose for the distillate collection hose which they say is chemical tolerant as well (tried to do a stripping run on ugssm and didn’t get much more out of it than a normal run turned up heat and got uncondensed vapor granted it was 25 degrees in my garage anything comming out at a warm temp steamed)so thinking of adding more condenser capacity another Double Walled Liebig Condenser 12 to 18 inches long what is the best way to add copper to the ss looking for a detachable unit for storage can I put a cut in the connector and use a hose clamp like a seat post clamp on a bicycle thoughts
Thanks for your input fruitbat

[Stainless dude]

I wanted to thank all of you guys for your great post and articles about distilling. I've not been in this hobby long but I'm just haveing a blast. Not only is there tons to learn but I get to build stuff and then enjoy the fruits.
I first built a 2" ss rig like the ones mile high sells, it worked just ok. Then read more of this topic and have to thank prariepiss for some great insight. On my second build I went with 3", 32" of copper packing, seperate cooling valves. And also
built a what I will call a horazontal shotgun condenser for reflux. The condenser has 18 3/8 inch tubes going through the column. So far I am really happy how it runs, it is responsive to both heat and cooling water adjustments.
I have lots and lots to learn about all of this but it's just been a blast. Once again I want to thank every one that contributes to this site.. :

[fruitbat]

Looking to get some help on mods on an essential extractor pro series II for a little while now ben trying to add another Liebig condenser to the unit. The condenser I am making is ½” type M copper with a ¾” type M copper pipe jacket. The SS pipe that comes off the unit is ½” od and I think 3/8” id now that 1/2" copper pipe is 5/8” od and 9/16” id (I measured with a caliper I might have to check that again looks funny). Now is that cus of the nominal measure that copper uses? By the way for a profession I am a cook if you want a med-rare stake or something of that nature no problem. I am trying to get rid of the chemical tolerant hose with 30 or 36 inch condenser and some extra copper for more distance from the heat source. Am I using the wrong type of pipe? Do I need to be using K or L type or should I be looking into copper tubing which is measured in od I believe. Been looking into compression fittings seen Bayou-Ruler’s vid post is that compression fitting soldered on to the stainless steel? Has or does anyone run two condensers in line on the same unit? Looking do faster stripping runs. Starting to get expensive ruining copper pipe and fittings. Any help would be much appreciated thanks fruitbat

[jeepkidd]

I ran a reflux run on my PSII HC on the weekend for the first time since I added the 5500w hot water heater element (I used to run on a propane burner). I have the column packed properly with copper mesh around the cooling pipes as well. The water was going in around 50 degrees.
I found that I couldn't hit full reflux with the heat at more than 7 amps (1680W) even with the water flowing fast enough that it was still cold coming out the other side.

I had to drop the heat to 6A for full reflux, then I increased the power to 8A after refluxing for a half hour or so and it started to trickle off my fores, then I backed it to 6A for full reflux again before going to 8A for my heads.

From reading through this post I see that I can leave my cooling at max, and adjust the power to my still. My question is - Does it sound right that my cooling can only knock down 6A of power?

[NCDS2000]

what will give you better tuning the 1/4 inch or the 3/8 inch needle valve or does it not really matter? i have a half inch needle valve laying in my basement will that be ok or do you think it will be to touchy

[Slowninja]

Jeepkid, sounds about right actually. Reflux runs are generally very slow. I don't know what cooling source you have on the reflux condenser but my through tube still won't knock down that much power

[jeepkidd]

Thank you. I am glad it is performing properly.

I am running cold tap water though. I find running it at a slow speed (would probably fill a 5gal bucket every 20min) the water is warm when it goes down the drain. If I speed up the water, it is cold going down the drain and it doesn't seem to knock down any more heat on the still. I like using tap water instead of the recirculation pump because I get a constant temp for the entire run and I'm not really wasting much water anyway.

[Prairiepiss]

fruitbat sory I missed your posts. I've been slacking.

As far as adding more condenser. I'm sory I can't exactly help you with that. I don't have one of those stills. So I can't measures what would be needed. But I thought someone had suggested a 3/8" compression fitting would work? Like I said I don't know can't test it. Maybe someone who has one can answer that better?

The rubber bung. Yes they say its fine. But there are many accounts around here that the rubber bung was giving peoples spirits an off flavor. That went away after they replaced it.

Flaring out the reducer I used a cone shaped mandrel. And beat it into submission.
But there are many ways to do it. Including your idea of using pliers. You would probably need to anneal it good first. Then work your way around a little at a time. Making it as smooth as you can. Then probably smoothing it out even more with a hammer. Then filling it smooth to fit the inside of the pipe.

[Prairiepiss]

I ran a reflux run on my PSII HC on the weekend for the first time since I added the 5500w hot water heater element (I used to run on a propane burner). I have the column packed properly with copper mesh around the cooling pipes as well. The water was going in around 50 degrees.
I found that I couldn't hit full reflux with the heat at more than 7 amps (1680W) even with the water flowing fast enough that it was still cold coming out the other side.

I had to drop the heat to 6A for full reflux, then I increased the power to 8A after refluxing for a half hour or so and it started to trickle off my fores, then I backed it to 6A for full reflux again before going to 8A for my heads.

From reading through this post I see that I can leave my cooling at max, and adjust the power to my still. My question is - Does it sound right that my cooling can only knock down 6A of power?

Yes that sounds about right. Do you have it insulated. If so that would make it lower.

Running it the way you did would be about the best way to do it. Those two tubes don't have much cooling capacity. And you got to work with what you got.

[Prairiepiss]

what will give you better tuning the 1/4 inch or the 3/8 inch needle valve or does it not really matter? i have a half inch needle valve laying in my basement will that be ok or do you think it will be to touchy

What still do you have? MH or BH or homemade?

A 1/2" needle valve is pretty big. You don't find those on the shelf at the big box stores. I would give it a go. And see how it works. You already have it. Why not?

[fruitbat]

Thanks for the reply PP. worked on that 1 ½” to 1” reducer for the ctr ring got it close but the fittings on the stainless steel are a bit smaller than the pipe couldn’t get a tight fit. So picked up some sheet copper granted it is some sort of hobby stuff that I got at ace might work a bit thick but it is flexible. Around here can’t find sheet copper looked into copper flashing will it work or is it too thin. Perhaps could make ctr ring out of a ptfe gasket? All so got a brass compression fitting that works but after reading and not liking the lead post especially in a condenser been looking into a stainless steel option. Been sick boy brought home strep and somehow it got into my wrist can’t do to much right now witch is a bummer cus got 2 buckets of ugssm and a sugar that need to be run. Well I’ll keep reading and looking for some answers again thanks for the help. End note made 32” condenser to add to the 12” ss condenser on the unit and a parrot working on a vent will post some pics when done and I am healthy.

[Prairiepiss]

Brass should be fine. If it makes you feel better pickle it.

[rusty shakleford]

My world class still has never run so smooth than with these mods! Temp dont fluctuate at allany more! Thank you for this thread. Seem to be getting more finished product now as well. Cant believe how much spirits ive been pissing away. Loved my still before and would have never knocked it, now love it more! Only prob is im spending more time with it.

[Prairiepiss]

My world class still has never run so smooth than with these mods! Temp dont fluctuate at allany more! Thank you for this thread. Seem to be getting more finished product now as well. Cant believe how much spirits ive been pissing away. Loved my still before and would have never knocked it, now love it more! Only prob is im spending more time with it.

Congrats. I'm glad this thread has helped you. It's nice to see that when it actually helps someone out.

[jeepkidd]

Yes that sounds about right. Do you have it insulated. If so that would make it lower.

Running it the way you did would be about the best way to do it. Those two tubes don't have much cooling capacity. And you got to work with what you got.

I have not insulated the column, I had been keeping my eye out for some pipe insulation that would be good for my 3" column. Now that I have way more heat then I need, I wasn't going to bother insulating it.

[Prairiepiss]

I probably wouldn't bother with it either.

[rad14701]

what will give you better tuning the 1/4 inch or the 3/8 inch needle valve or does it not really matter? i have a half inch needle valve laying in my basement will that be ok or do you think it will be to touchy

A Cooling Management reflux column should never have a needle valve on the output if that was what you were referring to... This topic is about CM...

[Prairiepiss]

what will give you better tuning the 1/4 inch or the 3/8 inch needle valve or does it not really matter? i have a half inch needle valve laying in my basement will that be ok or do you think it will be to touchy

A Cooling Management reflux column should never have a needle valve on the output if that was what you were referring to... This topic is about CM...

I think he is talking about controlling the reflux condenser water flow. Like I have in my original post. Using a needle valve gives better or finer control over the condenser and still.

[NCDS2000]

sorry for the late reply, I have a cm type the milehigh unit they sell with all the mods prairie talked about in the original post. I was just getting around to finalizing it this week and giving it a go. Yes i am talking about controlling the the water flow for the relux i think the 1/2 inch will be just fine. cant wait to test it out.

One last thing i forgot to ask was at full water flow through my unit how much water should be being put to waste i.e 1 liter per minute or 2 i know there is know exact answer for this but a general starting point would be good so i can fiddle with it and does any one run a pressure regulator inline i have city water and it is very constant pressure but around 90 psi or so