Heat element instalation

[S-Cackalacky]

I'm in the process of getting materials together to build a pot still. The setup will be:
20 qt. ss stock pot w/domed mixing bowl lid.
3/4 inch copper head to 1/2 inch liebig vapor tube.
I'll probably run no more than about 4 gallon wash batches.

I've been reading and investigating the use of a hotplate as a heating source and have decided that an internal heating element might be a less expensive and more efficient way to heat the boiler.

First question - would a 1500 watt 120 volt element be enough to bring 4 gallons to boiling temp in a reasonable amout of time? I would be using it in conjuction with a router speed controller to bring the element temp down after the initial heat up.

Second question - is there a way to install a heating element into a stock pot without welding? Maybe some kind of internal screw on fitting that mates with the external fitting. I know Mile High sells the welded type, but that's not an option for me.

Thanks for any comments or suggestions,
S-C

[Prairiepiss]

From the calculator available on the parent site.
1500w 5 gal of water heated from 65 deg f to boiling in 60 min.

You run a 1500w element on a router controller you will need to add a heatsink. Like in my harbor freight thread.

Look at how they mount the elements on this site. A PTFE gasket can be made to use with it.
http://theelectricbrewery.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[S-Cackalacky]

From the calculator available on the parent site.
1500w 5 gal of water heated from 65 deg f to boiling in 60 min.

You run a 1500w element on a router controller you will need to add a heatsink. Like in my harbor freight thread.

Look at how they mount the elements on this site. A PTFE gasket can be made to use with it.
http://theelectricbrewery.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

That sounds OK. I was hoping for less than an hour, but if it seems like a problem, I can just add a second element at some point.

As fate would have it, my son brought home two computer processor heat sinks from his networking class yesterday. They even have fans (blowers) installed on them. I may have some questions for you in the future about how to actually attach the heat sinks to the controller. I'm sure it's probably pretty simple.

I'll take a look at that website tomorrow when I have a little more time.

This is a great starting point. Thank you,
S-C

[Prairiepiss]

Just remember if you do go with two elements. You will need to plug them into separate circuits. One 15 amp circuit can't handle two 15 amp loads.

[S-Cackalacky]

Just remember if you do go with two elements. You will need to plug them into separate circuits. One 15 amp circuit can't handle two 15 amp loads.

Thanks. Yes that is the way I planned to run it. And, I will run one on the controller and just use the second element to get up to temp and then unplug it. I'm guessing, based on your statement above, that a 20 amp controller also wouldn't be advisable - correct?

For anyone interested - Lowes has the 1500W/120V elements for less than $9 each. This seems much more cost effective than a $100+ hotplate that would probably be much less efficient.

Thanks again Mr. Piss,
S-C

[rad14701]

The maximum amperage rating of the controller just needs to be at least as great or greater then the load it is intended to control... So if a 1500W element draws 12.5A any controller from 15A - 40A would work just as well, and doubling is not uncommon because then you have an added level of durability in the components... If you check out the various topics in these forums regarding controllers you will find that many components are double rated for the load... The load dictates the amperage consumed, not the rating of the controller...

I have a controller for my 1500W element (12.5A maximum draw) that uses a 40A Triac, a 600W dimmer switch, and a 1/2W resistor...

[S-Cackalacky]

The maximum amperage rating of the controller just needs to be at least as great or greater then the load it is intended to control... So if a 1500W element draws 12.5A any controller from 15A - 40A would work just as well, and doubling is not uncommon because then you have an added level of durability in the components... If you check out the various topics in these forums regarding controllers you will find that many components are double rated for the load... The load dictates the amperage consumed, not the rating of the controller...

I have a controller for my 1500W element (12.5A maximum draw) that uses a 40A Triac, a 600W dimmer switch, and a 1/2W resistor...

Thanks Rad, that's good to know. As you all can see by now, I'm bout dumb as a box of rocks when it comes to electrical stuff. I'll be very careful as I proceed with this and ask my dumb-assed questions as needed.

Prairiepiss, I finally got a chance to look at the website from your first post. It was very helpful. Looks like all I'll need is the ss lock nut for the inside of the boiler, the washer/spacer and a ptfe gasket. The one photo I saw of the inside installation showed only the lock nut. Would the washer and gasket be installed on the outside of the boiler and in what sequence? I was assuming the gasket would need to go on the inside to prevent the possibility of liquid migrating to the outside.

S-C

[S-Cackalacky]

The maximum amperage rating of the controller just needs to be at least as great or greater then the load it is intended to control... So if a 1500W element draws 12.5A any controller from 15A - 40A would work just as well, and doubling is not uncommon because then you have an added level of durability in the components... If you check out the various topics in these forums regarding controllers you will find that many components are double rated for the load... The load dictates the amperage consumed, not the rating of the controller...

I have a controller for my 1500W element (12.5A maximum draw) that uses a 40A Triac, a 600W dimmer switch, and a 1/2W resistor...

Thanks Rad, that's good to know. As you all can see by now, I'm bout dumb as a box of rocks when it comes to electrical stuff. I'll be very careful as I proceed with this and ask my dumb-assed questions as needed.

Prairiepiss, I finally got a chance to look at the website from your first post. It was very helpful. Looks like all I'll need is the ss lock nut for the inside of the boiler, the washer/spacer and a ptfe gasket. The one photo I saw of the inside installation showed only the lock nut. Would the washer and gasket be installed on the outside of the boiler and in what sequence? I was assuming the gasket would need to go on the inside to prevent the possibility of liquid migrating to the outside.

S-C

OK, I managed to answer my own question. I read a little deeper into the actual installation procedure on the website and see how the washer and o-ring are being used. I'll just need to think through an alternative for the o-ring - maybe a version of the ever-lasting ptfe/cardboard gasket as a substitute. An added gasket cut from ptfe sheet on the inside between the nut and bulkhead might also help to assure a good seal (just thinkin' out loud).

I'll probably go with a hole saw instead of a punch to make the hole in the stock pot. That's the only part of the process that makes me a little nervous. The hole punch recommended on the website is just a little out of my price range.

S-C

[smitty7775]

You can cut ss with a hole saw, just
go slow and don't over heat it...

As for the o ring, wrap it with ptfe tape...
I wrapped my rubber gasket for my corny
keg,and it still looks like i did it yesterday.

I looked at that site last night, it was very
interesting...but way too expensive for me
lol good pics for visual on what you need.

Good luck,
Smitty

[smitty7775]

I just remembered that i couldn't find
a ss nut that fits a heater element, so
I went with bolting a plate of copper
over my hole and cutting another hole
the same size in the copper then
soldering a 1 inch threaded copper
fitting that my element screws into to
the copper plate...sorry if you can't
follow that, I'm on lunch break and
running late.lol

Smitty

[S-Cackalacky]

I just remembered that i couldn't find
a ss nut that fits a heater element, so
I went with bolting a plate of copper
over my hole and cutting another hole
the same size in the copper then
soldering a 1 inch threaded copper
fitting that my element screws into to
the copper plate...sorry if you can't
follow that, I'm on lunch break and
running late.lol

Smitty

I did follow it. Sometimes I guess you have to think outside the box and improvise when need be.

If you look in the parts list for the heating elements, there are links to Amazon and ebay where you can find all the parts they use - including the 1.25" ss nut.

Just sayin'
S-C

[Prairiepiss]

Wrapping the O-rings with PTFE tape is good. The PTFE sheet gasket for the inside is a good idea too. It will keep the nut off the pot wall. And allow you to turn it and not gouge the stainless. A hole saw will work. Like already said go slow and dint over heat it. I also use step drill bits.

[S-Cackalacky]

Wrapping the O-rings with PTFE tape is good. The PTFE sheet gasket for the inside is a good idea too. It will keep the nut off the pot wall. And allow you to turn it and not gouge the stainless. A hole saw will work. Like already said go slow and dint over heat it. I also use step drill bits.

Prairiepiss (or anyone else), maybe you can answer this, or give advice. I found a PTFE gasket on ebay that's 35mm ID X 45mm OD. 1.25 inches (diameter of the threaded end of the element) is about 32mm. Do you think the additional 3mm will make this gasket a bad fit? 3mm is a little less than .12 inches, or about .06 inches between the OD of the threaded end of the element and the ID of the gasket.

S-C

[Prairiepiss]

I would say depends on the lip the seal will seal against. I would think that mite be to big? I could be wrong.

[Soggy Bottom Boy]

I don't think that the flat face of the element is a big enough diameter to work well with that o-ring, at least on my Camco 5500 it doesn't appear to be. I would say it would smoosh out one side or the other and make a bad seal. My 2 cents anyway.

[S-Cackalacky]

OK, thanks Prairiepiss and SoggyBB for getting back to me. I'll keep looking. I found the correct size on one website for just over $2, but they had a $50 minimum order - oh well.

Thanks again,
S-C

[S-Cackalacky]

An update - My daughter and I made the hole in the stock pot for the heating element using a 1-1/4" hole saw. We used this same hole saw for the hole in the stock pot mixing bowl lid where the riser will be attached. We took turns drilling while the other sprayed the hole saw with water. My God was this ever difficult! It took us at least 45 minutes on each hole just to get the pilot bit to break through. The actual saw part of the hole saw went through easily in less than 5 minutes.

At any time in the future I will dread the necessity of drilling a hole in ss. But, then there's no greater satisfaction than actually finishing the drilling of a hole in ss. It's kind of a weird paradox.

Just sayin',
S-C

BTW - I seem to be giving the wrong sizes for some of the heating element components. The ss lock nut I mentioned in a previous post is actually 1" NPS (not 1.125"). I would suggest to anyone interested in using this method for installing a heating element to please follow the parts list on the site provided by Mr. Piss earlier in this thread. I'll try to post updates as I go through the installation and testing. I still have a few parts to order before I can finish this.

[claytonhaske]

That tutorial on how to build that heater element enclosure is great!!!!