The KYChemist Boka Still Build... "Boiler #2"

[Halfbaked]

Mad skills. Beautiful!

[The KYChemist]

Thank you, for the compliment, Halfbaked. I'll let The Mechanic know, too, as this was a joint venture. It'll be even better once all the little wrinkles get ironed out.

[bellybuster]

haven't seen this thread for strange reason, beautiful build there KY. The red light up fans are gonna make your run faster and for sure make the likker taste better. Without a doubt.

[The KYChemist]

haven't seen this thread for strange reason, beautiful build there KY. The red light up fans are gonna make your run faster and for sure make the likker taste better. Without a doubt.

Yeah... I heard red are better than than the blue ones, but about the same as the green ones. J/K, LOL. Seriously, though, I figured why not go lighted. They were only a little more than unlighted fans, and look really awesome.

[The KYChemist]

OK... So I set back up today, and at least got better results. Yesterday, I was only getting about 1/8lpm. Today, with the output line bled, I was able to get 1/2lpm. This was a pain, trying to figure out how to get the air out. In the end, I raised the output tube higher than the head. Once it filled with water, I took the end back down to the reservoir. Then, to get the smaller bubbles out, I sucked on the end, which created pressure and made the bubbles travel to the output. Suck on the end, plug it, spit. Repeat. After three of four cycles, the bubbles moved to the end of the output. Just reread that, and it sounded dirty. Thinking it might be the Liebig, I bypassed it totally. Still the same results. 1/2lpm. This is leading me to believe I need a bigger pump. If any one has any other ideas, post em up. I'm stymied, though.

[Hound Dog]

I would try two things just to trouble shoot.

First, take your condenser out and lay it on the ground so it is lower than your output and see if you get decent flow. If you do then the pump just can't handle the head lift with the restriction on it.

If you are not getting flow with it laying down, hook it to your tap and see if you get a good stream. If you don't then you have a blockage in your coil causing restriction. If you have a good stream with the tap and not the pump then it is probably in the pump.

The build looks great by the way You'll get this bug worked out quickly.

[The KYChemist]

Thanks for the tips. I was going to try hooking it up to the faucet, but ran out of time today, and need to pick up some fittings. I'll try the coil below the pump test first, since I have everything on hand to do that. Thanks for the compliments, on the build, by the way.

[Litebread]

I had this exact issue with my double wound coil for my Boka and I was using a 950ghp pump even... Just a weak flow on the output side. I was convinced I had a kink or solder blocking the works and was never happy with the condenser.

After I rebuilt the still I plumbed the cooling to use house pressure water and just pass the water down the drain and what do you know... The double wound worked beautifully. It seems to have just been a matter of head pressure. A pump, even with a crazy high GPH rating just can't produce the psi required to flow through those wound coils like I wanted.

As was said before by rad, it really does only take a trickle of water to maintain full reflux. This is why I don't mind running from the tap and into the drain... The total water consumed in a run is less than what's used in the average shower, even with a low flow shower head. It nice knowing you can push way more water than needed though when hooked to the pipes.

-Litebread

[Condensifier]

Nice work KYChemist.

Take a look at this thread with a post by Samohon on how to make a bypass for your pump. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 45&start=0 I've been meaning to make one myself just haven't got around to doing it.

[Hound Dog]

Using a magnetic drive pond pump a bypass really isn't needed. The impeller is just driven by magnetic force not a direct mechanical drive. There is no real electric motor connection to bog down and burn up. If you have a fish tank look how the little pump impeller on the filter is driven in there. In just sits down in a plastic cup and spins but connects to nothing. Similar setup here.

For most of our purposes, head lift rating on a pump is the most important listing. I would suggest to go a little over what you need. Technically I guess you can measure from the top of your water resivior to the top of your rig because of the weight of water blah blah blah. I just went with a 14' head lift pump so i knew I would be good.

GPH? Well if you only need a liter a minute, that's only like 15- 20 GPH. A 14' head lift pump will be in the hundreds so no worries about GPH. If you just go by GPH you might luck out but if that pump has a 600 GPH rating and only a 5' lift rating, you are not getting your water up to the condenser.

[The KYChemist]

Yeah... My 264 pump only has a head rating of about 6.? feet. I figured that rating would be for the 3/4 or 1/2 inch connections that came with the pump. Since my lines are 3/8, I figured the drop in size would help get it up there better, and I might get lucky. @ litebread... What was the head rating on the 950 pump you were trying to use, if you can remember?

[Hound Dog]

Did you try running water through your condenser with it laying down on the floor or table out of your still just to see the flow? If it flows then it is just the head pressure of the pump.

[The KYChemist]

Did you try running water through your condenser with it laying down on the floor or table out of your still just to see the flow? If it flows then it is just the head pressure of the pump.

No... Not yet. Ran out of time to play, yesterday. I was saving that, for after I get off of work, today.

[Litebread]

@ litebread... What was the head rating on the 950 pump you were trying to use, if you can remember?

Not off the top of my head, no, and the pump is filed away in the shed at home since it's been of little use to me now.

If it were me the first test I would run is just to rig up some fittings to put your condenser onto a standard hose bib or house faucet and see how the flow is. If you like what you see there then its simply a matter of the right pump and plumbing. If the flow is still sub-par on house pressure then there is a defect in the condenser itself and that should be addressed before any pump issues are looked at further.

just my thoughts and I will be happy to look at that pump rating this evening when I'm home next.

-Litebread

[The KYChemist]

I'm going to test the pump I have now, at the same height as the condenser, when I get home. I'll see what my LPM are that way, since it will be free. If they improve, this should be indicative of an undersized pump, correct? If I don't like what I see, I'll go get the fittings to hook up to the faucet. Head rating and brand would be much appreciated, Litebread. I have my eye on an Ecoplus with a head rating a little over 14ft. Its between that one and a pump with a head rating of about 9ft.

[Litebread]

Actually here is a link to the exact model: http://www.acehardware.com/product/inde ... 40.1260936

It was rated higher than I remember...

From the ad it states - "Discharge: 1050 GPH at 0', 860 GPH at 10', 730 GPH at 15'"

-Litebread

[BigJay00]

Had the same issues with you same pump as you're using, I simply elevated the water reservoir about 2ft by putting it on a small stand. If this is practical for you then it's a great *simple* way to increase the flow rate.

Great build!

[T-Pee]

Had the same issues with you same pump as you're using, I simply elevated the water reservoir about 2ft by putting it on a small stand. If this is practical for you then it's a great *simple* way to increase the flow rate.

BOOM! Good solution, Jay!

tp

[The KYChemist]

BOOM! Good solution, Jay!

tp

Good solution? Yes! Just not for me. The condenser barrel is stored under the table, behind my still. I have nowhere I can keep a 20 gal trash can, elevated at 2 feet, anywhere in my house. Maybe in the next house...

[Hound Dog]

I think this is the one I have. http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?par ... &cId=PDIO1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow.

I had one of the sump pump styles at first (just because I had one in the shed) and the "thermal protection" would kick in and shut it off periodically. Well, I am glad I made that discovery on the cleaning run! Glad yours is working Litebread. The one i had might have been defective.

[The KYChemist]

AAAARGH! Well, I tested the condenser, with the pump in a sink full of water. The condenser was maybe 6 inches higher than the pump. Bled all the lines of air, and got the flow going. Results? Exactly the same as everything mounted for normal operation. 1/2 LPM. Now, I'm being led to believe there is too much constriction in my coil, for a mag drive pump. So, I'm guessing my best bet will be to hook it to the faucet. That way, I should have plenty of pressure and flow. Or... Could I get away with only a 1/2 LPM? It is an 11inch coil. Most Boka's I have seen only have about an 8 inch coil.

[Hound Dog]

I would not rely on that low of a flow rate. Hook up to your faucet and see what you get. If it still flows slow, you have a blockage. A mag drive pump can provide enough flow if nothing is blocking it. If it cannot, the restriction will burn up a regular pump.

You know you can avoid a lot of frustration with restriction problems and such in less than a half hour building one of these....... http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 87&t=43955

[Hound Dog]

You sure a chunk of salt is still not in there? Hooking to the faucet will tell the tale.

[rad14701]

Doubtful that 1/2 liter per minute will cut it... Remember, it takes X amount of coolant to knock down X amount of heat... It doesn't matter how big the condenser is, once it gets up to the vapor temperature it's not going to knock down the heat...

[The KYChemist]

Yeah... Faucet was the next step. I figured I wouldn't have enough flow. Was doing my best to grasp at any kind of loophole, I could find.

[The KYChemist]

Sorry, Hounddog, just saw your post. No salt, or filler, used to wind the coil. No kinks in it, either.

[pfshine]

What are those things just after the compression 90 with the barb fitting on it?

[The KYChemist]

1/4 compression x 1/4 npt 90, to 1/4 x 3/8 hex bushing, to 3/8 full coupler, to 3/8 npt x 3/8 barb fitting.

[pfshine]

Sometimes teflon tape can cover or otherwise block openings especially on small diameter tubing.

[The KYChemist]

Sometimes teflon tape can cover or otherwise block openings especially on small diameter tubing.

I was super careful with the teflon. Two wraps, and wrapped about a 1/16" from all male ends. Blew through both rigs, before connecting to condenser coil, and no resistance. Compression couplings tightened per Parker specs. 1 & 1/4 turns, after finger tight.