Calling all VM operators...
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
I let me reflux column sit at equilibrium for 15 - 20 minutes and get the same results as letting it go for longer periods of time... I'm not about to wait 1 - 2 hours and then run a take off rate of 1 drip per second or so and having my runs take 15 - 24 hours as discussed in at least one book... I have better things to do with my life... Use your own judgement to lock in a set of protocols that works for you and stick with it...
- Purewater
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
Its a really pleasant solution that still stirrin to have a combination LM/VM head
A bit of optimal to take off heads with.and also not need to change lid and column for every new stripprun.
It sounds like we come up with pretty much same workinghours for a spiritrun there to. But we see i just got my new spp this week so can probably cut it of a bit i hope. Should be intresting, have about 2L of spp and wait now for amphoras copper mesh to work as packing holder for spp in bottom and up against takeoff, i wanted to use that copper mesh because i go Totaly SS otherwise, and im not crying either for increase the HETP a bit against that SS scrubbers.
I have actually been moore and moore intrested that find a solution to upgrade to a VM E-ARC now,
But its take a big bite of the craftmanship that drew me into this. And a lot of money aswell to invest.
But like a kid i fee a drawing to this stuff and whats new is always tickling
Is someone here knowledge of a SKN E-ARC retailer or are all people electricians in here

A bit of optimal to take off heads with.and also not need to change lid and column for every new stripprun.
It sounds like we come up with pretty much same workinghours for a spiritrun there to. But we see i just got my new spp this week so can probably cut it of a bit i hope. Should be intresting, have about 2L of spp and wait now for amphoras copper mesh to work as packing holder for spp in bottom and up against takeoff, i wanted to use that copper mesh because i go Totaly SS otherwise, and im not crying either for increase the HETP a bit against that SS scrubbers.
I have actually been moore and moore intrested that find a solution to upgrade to a VM E-ARC now,
But its take a big bite of the craftmanship that drew me into this. And a lot of money aswell to invest.
But like a kid i fee a drawing to this stuff and whats new is always tickling

Is someone here knowledge of a SKN E-ARC retailer or are all people electricians in here

Information is for sharing.
Nothing tastes like PureWater
Love and Respect
Nothing tastes like PureWater
Love and Respect
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
I've built a regular arc still, it was a really fast easy to use still. I think you might try that before you go jumping into an e arc, it's a lot of building.
Ideas are like rabbits. You get a couple and learn how to handle them, and pretty soon you have a dozen. John Steinbeck
- ericrichards420
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
kiwistiller, when I first started reading this forum a few months ago I came across your how to.
As a novice I found your thread to be very informative, and fun to read cause I could imagine running the still as you were telling us how to run it.
I bet I read that thread 50 times. That was a good write up.
As a novice I found your thread to be very informative, and fun to read cause I could imagine running the still as you were telling us how to run it.
I bet I read that thread 50 times. That was a good write up.
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
On my first spirit run on my modular VM, the thermometer sat at 75.6C for about 45 minutes during the initial equilibration before slowly dropping. I take that was the temperature where the volatiles in the fores were starting to stack up. What was with the dropping bit?
Once I got to the main part of the run, the thermometer sat rock solid at 78.9C, four hours before jumping to 79.1C. I pushed the still fairly hard getting close to 2.5 litres per hour - too hard I reckon, even though the first 5 litres of product had an ABV of 93%, I could detect the sickly banana like note of heads... Always something to be learned aye
Once I got to the main part of the run, the thermometer sat rock solid at 78.9C, four hours before jumping to 79.1C. I pushed the still fairly hard getting close to 2.5 litres per hour - too hard I reckon, even though the first 5 litres of product had an ABV of 93%, I could detect the sickly banana like note of heads... Always something to be learned aye
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50L Beer keg boiler, 2200W element
Modular 2" Pot Still
opinions are free and everybody has them, experience costs you time
50L Beer keg boiler, 2200W element
Modular 2" Pot Still
opinions are free and everybody has them, experience costs you time
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
viewtopic.php?p=6836182#p6836182
This is a wonderful write up thanks @kiwidistiller. Sorry for my questions but I have just built my VM still and I need to ask:-
Sudium Carbonate or Bicarbonate:
Is sodium carbonate considered safe, I see it has been asked before but not answered? Should I just play safe and use bicarb?
Cooling Steup:
I have setup a water feed with a y-splitter sending fresh tap water to each RC and Shotgun. The article says one should run the RC with water from the Shotgun outflow. This would be tidier, but is it preferable? I feel I have ultimate flow control with independant supplies.
Equilibrium:
When is it that we're risking making our equipment a bomb? Isn't valve closed and full reflux a risk?
And to get full reflux, I gotta make sure vapours are not leaking out of the hole in my lid, so I must over cool but how does one get the balance right?
Reflux Ratio:
How do I calculate RR?
Hearts / Tails Cut:
Quote - "Watch the temp. You should have a digital thermometer with a 0.1*C resolution. It may rise and fall 0.1*C briefly over the course of the hearts, but when it rises 0.1 or 0.2 and stays there, it's time to pay attention. Shut the valve a bit to bring it back down. Keep the heat at the hearts level - you want to keep the vapour production and therefore reflux ratio up, so we control this with the valve, not the power. When temp rises again, shut a bit more.
Running a VM really is about a good thermo. Being able to read 0.1 ºC changes is what lets you make good neutral fairly easily."
Should I be replacing my analogue thermostat which is placed just before my take-off valve with a digital stat?
This is a wonderful write up thanks @kiwidistiller. Sorry for my questions but I have just built my VM still and I need to ask:-
Sudium Carbonate or Bicarbonate:
Is sodium carbonate considered safe, I see it has been asked before but not answered? Should I just play safe and use bicarb?
Cooling Steup:
I have setup a water feed with a y-splitter sending fresh tap water to each RC and Shotgun. The article says one should run the RC with water from the Shotgun outflow. This would be tidier, but is it preferable? I feel I have ultimate flow control with independant supplies.
Equilibrium:
When is it that we're risking making our equipment a bomb? Isn't valve closed and full reflux a risk?
And to get full reflux, I gotta make sure vapours are not leaking out of the hole in my lid, so I must over cool but how does one get the balance right?
Reflux Ratio:
How do I calculate RR?
Hearts / Tails Cut:
Quote - "Watch the temp. You should have a digital thermometer with a 0.1*C resolution. It may rise and fall 0.1*C briefly over the course of the hearts, but when it rises 0.1 or 0.2 and stays there, it's time to pay attention. Shut the valve a bit to bring it back down. Keep the heat at the hearts level - you want to keep the vapour production and therefore reflux ratio up, so we control this with the valve, not the power. When temp rises again, shut a bit more.
Running a VM really is about a good thermo. Being able to read 0.1 ºC changes is what lets you make good neutral fairly easily."
Should I be replacing my analogue thermostat which is placed just before my take-off valve with a digital stat?
- Salt Must Flow
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
I've treated low wines with Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) many times. I actually spread it out on a baking sheet and baked it which supposedly removes any residual moisture and supposedly makes it multiple times stronger (from what I've read). I store it it in glass jars. That link says Sodium Carbonate is preferable over Sodium Bicarbonate, but I haven't tried both. I've seen most let their low wines sit for days, but I've also read where tests have been done and is supposedly works just fine without any wait. Just dissolve, pour it in the boiler and run it. I've never waited.Sudium Carbonate or Bicarbonate:
Is sodium carbonate considered safe, I see it has been asked before but not answered? Should I just play safe and use bicarb?
I run water to both condensers separately that way I have complete control over the exiting water temp for each condenser. The shotgun needs barely a trickle of water during a spirit run while the reflux condenser needs more flow. I see no point in linking them.I have setup a water feed with a y-splitter sending fresh tap water to each RC and Shotgun. The article says one should run the RC with water from the Shotgun outflow. This would be tidier, but is it preferable? I feel I have ultimate flow control with independant supplies.
Above the reflux condenser should have at least a hole to be able to vent therefore it is NOT a closed system and can never become a bomb. IF/when the gate valve is closed and not enough water running through the reflux condenser, you'll see or hear vapor venting out the top. Feel the condenser and you should notice a temp gradient. Hot on the bottom, cool on top and warm in the middle. You'll get the hang of it real quick. Some just feel the outgoing water temp. Some go by flow rate. I go by water temp. I forget the actual temp is, but if my outbound water exceeds around 160F then vapor will start to escape through the top. I shoot for around 145F and set a temp alarm. You don't need to do that, most don't, but I like it.Equilibrium:
When is it that we're risking making our equipment a bomb? Isn't valve closed and full reflux a risk?
And to get full reflux, I gotta make sure vapours are not leaking out of the hole in my lid, so I must over cool but how does one get the balance right?
This is how I've done it. I remove the reflux condenser and cap it. Run the still at the same power you typically would but with with the gate valve WIDE OPEN. Once product is exiting consistently, begin timing while collecting product. Now you know your collection rate at that specific power setting. Stick the reflux condenser back on, run like you normally would, gate valve cracked open as much as you normally do when collecting, time and collect again. Now you know your output rate at that power and gate valve setting while running reflux. Now it's just math to compare what the reflux ratio is vs what is exiting.Reflux Ratio:
How do I calculate RR?
Honestly I did this, but never finalized the math to determine what my reflux ratio actually is. It really doesn't matter to me because I know how fast I can collect product, I know what % ABV is and I know that it is clean as can be.
I install a thermowell between the gate valve and the Tee in order to monitor the vapor temp. Analog thermometers are of no use to me, I only use digital thermometers that can set temp alarms. My Auber EZboil DSPR400 uses an RTD Sensor which is extremely sensitive and the controller displays 1/10th degree resolution which is really nice. Keep in mind that digital thermometers do not have to be 100% accurate, ONLY consistently repeatable.Hearts / Tails Cut: Should I be replacing my analogue thermostat which is placed just before my take-off valve with a digital stat?
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
This is the way to do it but please remove the valve for the test .If you have it closed instead of open , you potentially die .Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Sat Oct 29, 2022 10:49 am This is how I've done it. I remove the reflux condenser and cap it. Run the still at the same power you typically would but with with the gate valve WIDE OPEN. Once product is exiting consistently, begin timing while collecting product. Now you know your collection rate at that specific power setting. Stick the reflux condenser back on, run like you normally would, gate valve cracked open as much as you normally do when collecting, time and collect again. Now you know your output rate at that power and gate valve setting while running reflux. Now it's just math to compare what the reflux ratio is vs what is exiting.
SMF , when you bake Sodium bicarb in an oven , it converts it to Sodium Carbonate , so in effect , you have been using it .Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Sat Oct 29, 2022 10:49 am I've treated low wines with Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) many times. I actually spread it out on a baking sheet and baked it which supposedly removes any residual moisture and supposedly makes it multiple times stronger (from what I've read). I store it it in glass jars. That link says Sodium Carbonate is preferable over Sodium Bicarbonate, but I haven't tried both.
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
- Salt Must Flow
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
I totally get the reason to remove the valve. Now that I think back, I probably did. On or off wouldn't make any difference in vapor flow so I bet I did remove it.Yummyrum wrote: ↑Sat Oct 29, 2022 2:07 pmThis is the way to do it but please remove the valve for the test .If you have it closed instead of open , you potentially die .Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Sat Oct 29, 2022 10:49 am This is how I've done it. I remove the reflux condenser and cap it. Run the still at the same power you typically would but with with the gate valve WIDE OPEN. Once product is exiting consistently, begin timing while collecting product. Now you know your collection rate at that specific power setting. Stick the reflux condenser back on, run like you normally would, gate valve cracked open as much as you normally do when collecting, time and collect again. Now you know your output rate at that power and gate valve setting while running reflux. Now it's just math to compare what the reflux ratio is vs what is exiting.
SMF , when you bake Sodium bicarb in an oven , it converts it to Sodium Carbonate , so in effect , you have been using it .Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Sat Oct 29, 2022 10:49 am I've treated low wines with Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) many times. I actually spread it out on a baking sheet and baked it which supposedly removes any residual moisture and supposedly makes it multiple times stronger (from what I've read). I store it it in glass jars. That link says Sodium Carbonate is preferable over Sodium Bicarbonate, but I haven't tried both.
Ah, thanks, good to know about baking the Baking Soda conversion to Sodium Carbonate.
- Salt Must Flow
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
This is that page where a guy lists his testing and results not waiting before running it.
On this page I found the following quote:
On this page I found the following quote:
HookLine
I use 1 teaspoon of sodium carbonate per litre of low wines, or 1 spoon of sodium bicarbonate per litre. With bicarb you need to wait at least 3-4 days before running it, with carb you can run it straight away.
Sodium Carbonate = Washing Soda or Soda Ash
Sodium Bicarbonate (sodium hydrogen carbonate) = Baking Soda
- bcook608
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
Is there a maximum amount of time low wines should sit with bicarb? I won't get around to stripping them again (triple pot still. 2 strips and 1 spirit until I build my VM) until next weekend. Will it hurt to let it sit or should I just wait to add it?
- Salt Must Flow
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
I would wait. I dissolve and add it just before I switch on the heating element.
- bcook608
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
OK, sounds like a plan. Thanks.
- bluefish_dist
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Re: Calling all VM operators...
I would let it sit for a minimal of 2-3 days. Seemed like most of the reaction happened right away. I would not worry about sitting for a week.
Formerly
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