first real still-questions
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first real still-questions
actually this is my second still the first was a mr distiller but i decided not to count that... i ordered the 8 gallon milk can still with new 2" tower http://www.milehidistilling.com/30lt_St ... /16030.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow and it just arrived but i noticed on the top of the tower it has a rubber bung to hold the thermomiter in place and a silicon gascet on the lid of the milk can... is this ok? iv read on here its not. and i know i have to clean it with vinigar first then distill something i dont intend to drink. so when i run it im supposed to get the water flowing though the cooling parts of the still then turn on the hot plate wait for the temp to het to 165 and try to keep it there take my cuts then do i just turn off the hot plate and wait for it to stop?
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Re: first real still-questions
it whould be best to replace the bung with wood? and yes you bring the still up to temps. turn on condenser(S) collect fore shots-heads --then harts--
last tales -- by this time you will want to shut it down. as this takes 4 to 10 hours depending how fast you run ,how big your wash is, how efficient your still is.all this time you sit and watch. DO NOT leave a operating still unattended as that is when something will happen.
shut off heat,, let it cool a bit then shut off water.
last tales -- by this time you will want to shut it down. as this takes 4 to 10 hours depending how fast you run ,how big your wash is, how efficient your still is.all this time you sit and watch. DO NOT leave a operating still unattended as that is when something will happen.
shut off heat,, let it cool a bit then shut off water.
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Re: first real still-questions
ok so i get the still heated to temp then turn on the cooling water?
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Re: first real still-questions
You need to have the cooling water on before the still reaches operating temperature... You don't want there to be any possibility that the still starts pushing alcohol vapor out of the still... While you should never leave the still unattended, if something were to happen that drew your attention away from it you want to know for sure that any vapor would be knocked down... Never run a reflux still with no coolant...capt. jerry wrote:ok so i get the still heated to temp then turn on the cooling water?
In fact, that unit requires an substantial amount of initial coolant in order to attain equilibrium... You then back off on the coolant to a point where spirits come out the liebig rather than 100% of the vapor being refluxed... That is a Cooling Management reflux still... If you ever consider making a modification to that column, I'd suggest starting by separating the tube that connects the two condensers so each condenser can be individually fed coolant... This would make the column much more versatile and probably easier to control...
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Re: first real still-questions
+1rad14701 wrote:If you ever consider making a modification to that column, I'd suggest starting by separating the tube that connects the two condensers so each condenser can be individually fed coolant... This would make the column much more versatile and probably easier to control...
Trample the injured and hurdle the dead.
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Re: first real still-questions
captain J,
I started out on the same still. Those CM rigs can produce +90% abv but require a bit of work.
Insulate the entire column (yes cover up that shiny SS) to maximize the reflux.
Then split your water input with a garden "Y" connector so you have water running into the lower
end of the condenser arm AND into the upper tube of the condenser head. Don't route the water through
one then the other. You can combine both outputs with another "Y".
Find a precision valve that requires 3 or 4 turns between full off and full on and install that in the water line running to the
condenser head.
Fire up your boiler to high and turn on the water to the head. In about 20-30 minutes you'll hear the water starting to boil
turn the heat down low and watch the temp. Keep the head water on full and with low heat until you find your way to 170 -175*. That Poder thermometer takes about 5 or 6 seconds to react but by adjusting your water valve very slowly you can stabilize the temp where you want it 172.5 - 173.2.
Like the others said that thing requires attention through the entire run.
If you got your hotplate from the same vendor be sure it doesn't cycle on/off or you'll never get a handle on this.
Enjoy.
Doc
I started out on the same still. Those CM rigs can produce +90% abv but require a bit of work.
Insulate the entire column (yes cover up that shiny SS) to maximize the reflux.
Then split your water input with a garden "Y" connector so you have water running into the lower
end of the condenser arm AND into the upper tube of the condenser head. Don't route the water through
one then the other. You can combine both outputs with another "Y".
Find a precision valve that requires 3 or 4 turns between full off and full on and install that in the water line running to the
condenser head.
Fire up your boiler to high and turn on the water to the head. In about 20-30 minutes you'll hear the water starting to boil
turn the heat down low and watch the temp. Keep the head water on full and with low heat until you find your way to 170 -175*. That Poder thermometer takes about 5 or 6 seconds to react but by adjusting your water valve very slowly you can stabilize the temp where you want it 172.5 - 173.2.
Like the others said that thing requires attention through the entire run.
If you got your hotplate from the same vendor be sure it doesn't cycle on/off or you'll never get a handle on this.
Enjoy.
Doc
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Re: first real still-questions
I have on I call it my "good for nothing" still as it did not cost me anything,
I have no problems with it what little I use it.
I turn the heat up high , until the column starts to git hot, then turn the water on full, and turn the heat down.
after a few minutes start turning the water down until I git product, (take off fores/heads/harts/tales
it stays at 87-80c (172f-176f) during the run until it hits the tales then jumps up.
the biggest problem Iv seen was water pressure as I'm on a well , this was queried with a regulator.
I know its not the most efficient reflux but it will work.
I have no problems with it what little I use it.
I turn the heat up high , until the column starts to git hot, then turn the water on full, and turn the heat down.
after a few minutes start turning the water down until I git product, (take off fores/heads/harts/tales
it stays at 87-80c (172f-176f) during the run until it hits the tales then jumps up.
the biggest problem Iv seen was water pressure as I'm on a well , this was queried with a regulator.
I know its not the most efficient reflux but it will work.