MK5500 controller and element question

[Stilly]

Hello All,

I am a bit confused about my MK5500 controller and element. bought them a few months ago and finally got around to installing them. No problems, works fine, controller runs cool, thanks to the huge heat sink on the back.

My question is it only runs up to 18 amps according to ammeter. I have 236 volts no load at wall, circuit is for a dryer, 8 gauge wire. 18 amps times 236 equals 4248 watts, a bit less than 5500. I can only think of two explanations, one is the wrong pot is installed or another component, likely a capacitor or resistor is of the wrong value. Does anyone have any ideas what is up. I wonder if anyone else has had same experience?

Thanks
stilly

[moonshine guy]

Call hillbilly stills up and ask mike if he knows why it is doing this. The one I bought from them would not adjust and mike replace it. Back when you and I bought them mike was not testing them, but he is now!

[acfixer69]

You need to measure the voltage with the load on full. That will be the true voltage you are supplying the element. This is a 5500W element?

AC

[rad14701]

What is the wattage rating of your element...??? The controllers I build won't push 100% unless I add a bypass switch... The amount below 100% mains to the element is due to the internal circuitry... With my 120V controllers, driving a 1500W element, one design might perform up to 117V (1426W) while another might only go up to 107V (1193W)... To go beyond that requires a bypass switch...

EDIT: To add that your 4248W sounds like 95% for a 4500W element... This is typical for a controller that works over a 5% - 95% range...

[Stilly]

Thank you all for the quick replies. As RAD mentioned, I think MK may have sent me a element that is 4500 instead of 5500, there are no markings on it that I can see, the end is heat shrink tubed. I will check with MK.

thanks, now time for a cleaning run
stilly

[MuleKicker]

Should be a 5500w element? Unless something got boxed wrong. I never sold 4500w kits. It is common for these controllers to run 21-23A on the meter with a 5500w element. Never seen one that low. Do you have an ohm meter? If I remember right, a 5500w element should be 11.3ohms.... If someone can verify that? I just remember checking one a while back. Second, how big is your boiler, have you brought a wash up to boil with it, and how long does that take? Just wondering if the meter isnt a little whacky.

[Stilly]

Should be a 5500w element? Unless something got boxed wrong. I never sold 4500w kits. It is common for these controllers to run 21-23A on the meter with a 5500w element. Never seen one that low. Do you have an ohm meter? If I remember right, a 5500w element should be 11.3ohms.... If someone can verify that? I just remember checking one a while back. Second, how big is your boiler, have you brought a wash up to boil with it, and how long does that take? Just wondering if the meter isnt a little whacky.

Hi MK,

I was running a cleaning run with a 30% ABV wash when you replied. I just measured the element on a Fluke 8060A True RMS meter and it read 13.03 ohms. The 5-6 gallon wash heated up in about 25 minutes. The boiler is one of KS's 13 gallon jobs so I was running a light load. I saw 18.5 amps on meter at full power. Ran the wash at a steady stream on the output, and was pulling 12.5 amps at the start and cranked up to 14 amps when I quit. My new column is a copy of Heartcut's 3 condenser combo pot/CM.

This is my first time running electric, I used gas in the past so I am new to electric. I just thought it was odd that according to meter I was only drawing 4400 watts. I was very pleased with the performance. The meter did condensate a little moisture under the plastic lense after about 3 hours of running. I suspect after a longer run maybe it will evaporate off. Sadly I head out of town for a bit and won't be able to play with my new rig till middle of next week, but I am excited to finally be on electric, and am enjoying the new column.

How is your new repair business going?
cheers
stilly

[MuleKicker]

Honestly, if your pleased with performance, I personally wouldnt worry about it. There is no set guidlines to say that if you are going to do "X" run, set amperage meter to "Y". I dont even run a meter, but it may be helpful to you for spirit runs. the first few spirit runs you will pay attention to where it runs best. Then you can just dial it in from there. It isnt that it needs to "read" a certain number, just that you want that number to represent the same amount of power on the next run. Follow what Im saying? Im not always the best at writing down the point Im trying to get accrossed. I dont think it is a big deal, but if it bothers ya, we can fix it.

Repair shop is doing great
Cheers MK