My LM Nixon Stone with some modifications

[Butterman]

I started a new build, LM Nixon Stone off set with some 2' pipe I had salvaged and had laying around.
My take on this design is to make it modular so that I can play around with different size columns and condensers.
The main problem I see with this design is that it is hard to regulate the correct reflux to the draw off. So to deal with this I put a sight glass into the head right where the reflux tube reenters the column. This way I can visually adjust the reflux ratio. With my design I also wanted to be able to tell how much distillate was pooling at the reflux/take off valve so I designed a glass tube that fits into brass compression 90s that are soldered to 1/2" copper with easy flanges that will fit tri clamps and attach to the head.
Now I decided to do all these mods because I think it will help running the still and also because this build will refine my skills for my flute build.
Here are some photos of my progress.
This is rought layout of my head.

Here I am soldering my sight glass, 1 1/2" pipe with an easy flange and Heat-resistant Borosilicate Glass, 2" Diameter, 1/8". I think that I will using a cork gasket or PTFE gasket (if I find something that works) for sealing the glass to my flange.

I used an tri clamp cover to act as a heat sink and not ruin my easy flange while soldering the fitting to the body.

and then wrapped the sight glass fitting with a cold wet rag while soldering on my 6gauge copper wire to make an easy flange for the base of the head.

Here are the soldered parts.

Here is my finished distillate level. I wanted to make it removable in case of breakage so it will attach to the head near the draw of points for reflux and distillate with 1/2" tri clamps.

All comments, questions and criticisms welcome,
Butterman

[beelah]

looks god so far...I would imagine you will be adding a section of pipe above the head for you condenser to sit in, as the section you have in the picture looks a bit short...what would be nice would be to put one of those single plate bulbs they sell at Dragon Stills just below your site window...then you might see a bit of the magic working rather than just it dripping. I don't know if you have seen them...I will go and see if I can find a image.

[beelah]

actually they call it a torpedo

http://www.stilldragon.com/uploads/1/0/ ... 097624.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[bellybuster]

You guys are gonna be the end of me! I just love this one. I wanna see mine drip too now.

[Bonjimmi]

I like this one...... But then again, I am a fan of the off set head and sight glasses....

[bellybuster]

Subscribed, looking forward to seeing more.

[Richard7]

Looks great! I really like the site glass at your reflux point. I do have a comment, you could eliminate the valve on your reflux tube and just use your output to adjust your reflux. Then you would not have a need for the site tube or liquid level tube out on the side. You would know the level will not go higher than the reflux tube, And you want all that is not taken off to go to reflux anyway. Looking good man! Keep it up!

[Butterman]

Thanks for the interest you guys :>
Richard Ive thought about the valve on the reflux feed and considered the possibly of removing it, but I think it will add a certain amount of control to the whole process. And I would like to see and experiment with it. Maybe later after I realize that its is not a necessary component at that point maybe ill just remove it or even just leave it open.
As to the top of the head that short pipe that will fit the condenser/condensers I will be putting a easy flange on that short piece of tubing and then the different condensers I make will have a mating tube that is longer that attaches with a tri-clamp. Im thinking about starting with a Jackson cross-flow or a shotgun condenser as that will educate me for the flute build Im planning later, but Ill also probably try my hand at a double coil.

Butterman

[bellybuster]

I'd make a good sized coil. Mine is 3/8 inside a 3" tube about 10" long, single coil and I'm afraid it won't be enough. I'll be doing my sacrificial run soon as my electric kettle setup is done and find out.

I like how you strayed from the original by going with an elbo on top instead of a tee. Looks smooth.

[Butterman]

Hey BellyBuster I decided on the 90 instead of the T because the T just didnt make any sense to me except for a good place for a accurate thermo reading and the 90 seemed like a better way to get the vapor to the condenser and I also salvaged all these parts :>
Now with that in mind I did some work on it last night and even though it's not pretty, yet,(Ill be spending some time today finishing it and cleaning all my joints) I need some advice on where to solder in my threaded coupler for a dial thermometer;
Should it be here above the sight glass

Or I think more aesthetically pleasing here in the middle of the bend, but my concern is that it might be to close to the falling condensate and that will throw off the thermo readings?

Ill post some photos tonight of the finished head and the probable start of the Jackson cross flow.
I was going to go with a 2" T for my Jackson cross flow condenser with 1/4" tubes going through it but Belly has me thinking this might not be enough and now Im considering 3" cross flow with lots of 3/8" tubing for condensing. Any comments or suggestions on this?

Butterman

[Butterman]

I got alot more done on my head and I have started my condenser, but several people have asked me to do a post on how I make my easy flanges, so here that is and then soon Ill post more photos of the build :>
I want to say that I would not know or be able to do this post if not for all the people who posted their techniques on easy flanges which I learned from.
I start with 6 gauge solid copper which can be bought by the foot at any Lowes, Homedepot or Electrical supply, I clamp the end of the wire onto the rim of the pipe I want to make the flange for with some vicegrips and wrap the wire around the pipe maybe 1 and 1/2 times and mark the wire.

Then unclamp the wire and remove the wire from the tube and cut to the inside of each mark. I use a cut off wheel on my Dremel just so I get nice flat ends and also wear my welding gloves because the wire gets pretty hot.

After I get the wire cut I flatten the ring on a metal surface by putting a piece of oak (any hard wood) over the ring and giving it a couple hits with a hammer.
I then prep the ring and tube by sanding them with some 220 grit and applying flux to each and put the ring in the appropriate size hose clamp and tighten the clamp so that it compresses the ring enough to hold onto the pipe end for final adjustment. Adjust the ring so that end of the pipe is flush with the top of the ring and then tighten the hose clamp completely.

Apply some more flux and heat the tube just under the clamp. The clamp will act as a heat sink so applying heat to the ring or clamp will possibly burn/scorch the flux, no big deal just brush on some more while its hot (dont breath the fumes). Apply heat evenly around the tube and apply solder, it should flow evenly around the ring filling in the minor channel between the ring and tube.

Then to finish I use a sanding block to mill the end of the flange flat with 60 grit and then 150 grit.
After a little practice you can make a nice solid flange on any size pipe in about 15 minutes.

Comments, Questions and Criticisms Welcome,
Butterman

[Butterman]

Some more photos of my Nixon Stone LM build, the head it constructed.
I didnt like the idea of the glass for my site glass being exposed to the tri clamp edge, so I saw that a few other people put a copper ring/gasket/seal between the glass and the clamp. Anyhow here is me making that and then my head, even though it still needs a lot of cosmetic work and some decoration but I wont be doing any decor until after I get the whole still built (thinking about flames or maybe vines, not sure yet but definitely No2).
Here is a slice of 1 1/2" pipe and a disc I made out of some copper pipe that I pounded flat and cut out with a 2" hole saw.

I put them together with a ring of solder and on top a scrap piece of pipe and applied heat.

And then after some finish work. Not sure what this piece is called.

Here are all the pieces for my Head.

And then all put together.

Comments, Questions and Criticisms Welcome,
Butterman

[rad14701]

Starting to look like Steam Punk...

[Butterman]

I spent a bunch of time in the shop this evening working on a condenser. Flattened out some pipe, spray glued on my templates for my 3" Jackson cross-flow plates. Got them done and started thinking that the condenser I was making was to small or short in length so I started to plan out a longer one but was concerned about pooling on each side. So... I cut some 3" pipe with 15 degree angles on each side and soldered them together I figured this would funnel the condensate back into the head and I would not have to worry about pooling.

After cleaning the V up a bit I used a hole saw to make my hole for the 2" pipe to make the connection to the head. Altered the 2" piece I had originally planned to use and soldered that to the V.

Im guessing that getting the plates with the cross-flow pipes into the head might be a bit tricky, but it will be a learning experience.
I need a little advice; should I put a vent on both sides of the V or will one side be enough?

Comments, Questions and Criticism Welcome,
Butterman

[bellybuster]

Yup she's gonna be a treat getting the guts in
Looking very cool

[TheRevDr]

Well done. I went with a 90 degree "V" which made putting everything together tougher than it had to be. With your angle, you should be able to slide them in from the end which I couldn't do. I had to put all my tubes in then solder together the big pieces. I don't know about 1 vent versus 2 but I put my one vent on the water inlet side figuring the water is cooler so would help prevent vapor escape on that side. During my vinegar/water run, it didn't take much water flow to keep steam from escaping.

[Butterman]

Love your V and the auto paint Rev.
Ive asked in your original post on this but Ill ask here as well; looks like you used 2" pipe to make your V and Im curious what size tubing you used for your cross flow piping and how many?
I was actually thinking about 1 vent on the outlet side of the V, just because I figure if the hot side of the condenser cant knock down the vapor then I dont want it building up. But maybe supposing that the vent is on the colder side would the vapor build up enough on the hotter side be dangerous in any way? Probably from what you say it wont matter as the condenser will knock it all down.
Ive done a little still decorating with brass and did a post on it which a few people contributed to
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 50&t=36360
and I like your auto paint idea, might use that as well.

Butterman

[bellybuster]

now you guys have me thinking, you really shouldn't do that.
Shouldn't you put a vent in both sides? reason I say that is the vapour/pressure follows the path odf least resistance, I would think that would leave the majority of the unvented side unused ????

Just thinkin

[Butterman]

That makes sense Belly and making both sides vented would be more in line with the way a vertical coiled condenser works.
And it would look more symmetrical with 2 vents. Doing a little math I will have about 13 linear feet of 3/8 going through the V which is about what a 6-8" double coil, isnt that what you have Belly?

Butterman

[bellybuster]

I only have a single coil in mine of 3/8. Its about 10" long. It is just barely enough, I plan on upgrading with the external coil. I made the mistake of mounting my coil thru the wall of my 3" condenser pipe
If I had any more 2" I'd do something along the lines of you guys but so far none has shown up at the local scrap yards. I do have 1.5" but its tight getting a coil into that.

as far as the venting I really dont know either way, that idea just popped into my noggin but to me it makes sense. Considering the traditional offset condenser like mine is wide open at the top I don't see it mattering how many vents you hav as long as you are guiding the vapours over your coils.

[bellybuster]

now was looking at your pics, are you building 2 separate condensers, one for each wing or are you running your 3/8 from one end with a bend to the other?

[Butterman]

Running 3/8" from one end to the other, just like the traditional Jackson Cross-Flow but V shaped.

[TheRevDr]

Love your V and the auto paint Rev.
Ive asked in your original post on this but Ill ask here as well; looks like you used 2" pipe to make your V and Im curious what size tubing you used for your cross flow piping and how many?
I was actually thinking about 1 vent on the outlet side of the V, just because I figure if the hot side of the condenser cant knock down the vapor then I dont want it building up. But maybe supposing that the vent is on the colder side would the vapor build up enough on the hotter side be dangerous in any way? Probably from what you say it wont matter as the condenser will knock it all down.
Ive done a little still decorating with brass and did a post on it which a few people contributed to
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 50&t=36360
and I like your auto paint idea, might use that as well.

Butterman

Butterman, Sorry I missed your questions in my other post. I will answer there so I don't highjack this thread.

[TheRevDr]

I agree that a vent on each side would look better and may help all the cooling lines be more evenly in contact with vapors.

The side with no vent will still be condensing vapor and will not build up pressure. In the unvented side, as vapor hits the cooling tubes, the vapor condenses (collapses) which sort of "sucks" more vapor into that area to contact the cool tubes, and so on and so on.

[Butterman]

I started work on the condensers guts last night and here is some of that work :>
I got some 3/8" OD (outside diameter) soft copper, it comes in a roll and I needed to straighten it so that I could cut it into a bunch (19) even lengths (8").
To straighten coiled copper you first do your best to hand straighten it.

Then put about 1/2" of one end in a vise and then pinch the other end with some channel locks or I would imagine pliers will work also.

Then hit the channel locks with a mallet or hammer and this will stretch the tubing straightening and hardening it.

Now that I got the tubing straight I can cut it up into pieces on the chop saw.

[Butterman]

After cutting up a bunch of 3/8" tubing on the chop saw I needed to bend each tube in the middle to 30 degrees.
I made a reference jig/template and printed it out and then bent each tube in the middle to 30 degrees and compared each tube to my reference to make sure they were all the same.

After getting all the tubes bent it was a bit of challenge arranging them and spacing them correctly in the end plates. I found that using small lengths of Romex worked well at keeping the the pipes where they needed to be for soldering.

After soldering one end I took out the romex then soldered the other end and cut off the ends of the tubing to make them even.

I think it turned out ok, I will have to assemble the condenser before I can pressure test it. The guts fit in the V although if I was to make this again I would go with 10 degree down angles for a 20 V angle instead of 30. I think with 20 the guts would be easier to fit into the V and would give enough slope for the condensed vapor to flow back into the head.

Comments, Questions and Criticism Welcome,
Butterman

[wv_cooker]

Have been watching this thread closely today. Very nice fab work! Will keep a close eye to see how the different condensers work for you. I think proper condenser size is one of the biggest scares for a newb like me. Very nice work.

[Halfbaked]

Nice looking. I hope you hav not soldered that thing togather..... you will never get it in there if you have.... I like it. Good work!

[Butterman]

I went into the shop last night to do some real work and well the condenser just kept whispering 'assemble me, assemble me'.... and well so no real work got done.
I put in a couple 3/4" vents on either side and gave them the same angles as the V to level them out and they definitely gave it a look of horns, kinda of devilish and well Im starting to think that the decoration http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 50&t=36360 of this still will be more along the lines of flames instead of vines oh and a No2.

After getting the shell of the condenser completed I needed to make sure that the interior didnt have any bumps or lips that would get in the way of inserting the 'guts' or stopping the distillate from returning to the head, so I used my trusted rotary tool (Dremel, which Im finding to one of the most valuable tools for still making) with 60 grit sanding mandrel to sand/grind down any lips, bumps and generally clean the inside of the shell.

I put the guts into one end of the V and with just a little persuasion got it in and up to the half way point.

A couple light taps with the rubber mallet and it was in place :>

[Butterman]

After getting the guts in I needed to solder the plates to the shell. I fluxed the perimeter and made a ring of solder that fit snugly around the inside edge.

I then slowly heated the outside top perimeter of the shell until the solder flowed and made a nice even seal (well cant be sure until I pressure test the thing)

After getting the plates soldered in place all that was left to do was make the easy flanges for all ends (2" to the head and 2x 3" each end of the condenser for the water in/out caps). I didnt happen to have a big enough hose clamp for the 3" easy flanges so I put 2x 2" hose clamps together to hold the 6 gauge wire in place.

And well here it is :> needs lots of finish work and some milling (easy flanges all around need to be milled and tuned).

Here is a look at the pieces as they are starting to form a still.
Im definitely thinking about giving a coiled liebig a try for a secondary condenser from the take off. I really think that might just be the finishing touches (tail) for the currently forming devilish design, but we'll see... More to come...

Comments, Questions and Criticisms Welcome,

Butterman