Humming/Buzzing Hot Plate

[bhh]

Sorry if I’m spamming this topic today but I seem to be in electrical tinkering mode. I’m currently using a Waring SB30 1300 W hot plate on my father’s 30L alembic until I finish my still. It has been fine (but slow) for several stripping runs but I’m about to have enough low wines collected for two different recipes worth of spirit runs so I’ve pulled together a couple of temp controller options.

The problem is this hot plate makes a very loud and very angry humming/buzzing sound any time the current is modulated. I’ve seen this hot plate mentioned on several other threads and never seen any complaints about it, it is a nice unit.

I’ve tried a 15A router controller I have that has an OFF/FULL/VARIABLE toggle and it only hums when switched to variable, even if the dial is turned all the way up. Ok, I know you’re not suppose to use these things anyway so on to option #2.

Lucky me, I happen to have a 2000W Lutron dimmer with a big ol’ heat sync leftover from the days of halogen and PAR lighting. I wired that up to a GFCI duplex in a 3-gang junction box and the hotplate does the same exact thing!

Both devices seem to work fine with my wife’s hair dryer, fortunately.

What do you guys think is going on? Is this normal? I don’t want to invest more into this setup since I’m going to be using 240W internal elements on my own still but I don’t want to wait until it is complete to run these low wines either. 1300W isn’t massively overpowered so it might be fine to just use it full-speed or I could probably pick up a 750W el cheapo if really necessary but I’d really like to try and get this figured out since this alembic is so attractive and I’ll probably still use it from time to time on smaller spirit runs since I’m building my still on a 15-gallon boiler.

Thanks y’all.

[der wo]

1300 W for a 30l still charged with 20l mash or 25l low wines is very slow. I don't think, you will feel the need to reduce the heat at any point of distillation. Perhaps, if you want to slow down the fores, you could work with a little spray bottle. Spray water on the stillhead and you will get a rectification effect, slow and more concentrated fores.

[rad14701]

Have you totally bypassed and disconnected the original control circuit in the hot plate...??? You don't want it connected at all... Your choice of controller should be wired directly to the heating element itself...

[bhh]

No, I haven't bypassed the switch yet because the thing almost never cycles when running the strips wide open. I wanted to test it first before "breaking it".
Do you think the switch/temp control is what is causing the humming? I can open it up this weekend and test that out if you think that is the cause.

[rad14701]

No, I haven't bypassed the switch yet because the thing almost never cycles when running the strips wide open.
Do you think that is what is causing it? I can open it up this weekend and test that out.

Very likely the cause, which is why I asked... Keep us posted...

[bhh]

I'll give that a try, thank you.

[UrToopid]

I noticed that you said you have a GFCI connected. Unless
You are running your cords over damp surfaces, the GFCI serves no purpose other than adding to the number of connections which adds amp draw. You want to use a minimum number of plug connections and a minimum wire length (lazy loop is fine, an extra 25' maybe not) with the heaviest gauge cord you can bring yourself to buy. As mentioned above especially if this hot plate is IC controlled, you may want your power connections to go directly to the heating element.

My preferred method, at minimum, would be to send an off/on control signal (from a PID controller) to an SSR and let the SSR handle the power switching to the heater. A Thermocouple at the top of your thumper output, or Lyne arm if not using a thumper, would provide feedback to the controller. Many many tweaks available to this setup.

On the other hand, running low and slow with the setup you have is fine once you have some spirits saved up to enjoy while you wait..[ELECTRIC LIGHT BULB]


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[NZChris]

I noticed that you said you have a GFCI connected. Unless
You are running your cords over damp surfaces, the GFCI serves no purpose other than adding to the number of connections which adds amp draw. You want to use a minimum number of plug connections and a minimum wire length (lazy loop is fine, an extra 25' maybe not) with the heaviest gauge cord you can bring yourself to buy. As mentioned above especially if this hot plate is IC controlled, you may want your power connections to go directly to the heating element.

My preferred method, at minimum, would be to send an off/on control signal (from a PID controller) to an SSR and let the SSR handle the power switching to the heater. A Thermocouple at the top of your thumper output, or Lyne arm if not using a thumper, would provide feedback to the controller. Many many tweaks available to this setup.

On the other hand, running low and slow with the setup you have is fine once you have some spirits saved up to enjoy while you wait..[ELECTRIC LIGHT BULB]


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I suggest you ignore this advice, bhh. It is based on the Magic Boiling Myth and does not work.

[UrToopid]

I noticed that you said you have a GFCI connected. Unless
You are running your cords over damp surfaces, the GFCI serves no purpose other than adding to the number of connections which adds amp draw. You want to use a minimum number of plug connections and a minimum wire length (lazy loop is fine, an extra 25' maybe not) with the heaviest gauge cord you can bring yourself to buy. As mentioned above especially if this hot plate is IC controlled, you may want your power connections to go directly to the heating element.

My preferred method, at minimum, would be to send an off/on control signal (from a PID controller) to an SSR and let the SSR handle the power switching to the heater. A Thermocouple at the top of your thumper output, or Lyne arm if not using a thumper, would provide feedback to the controller. Many many tweaks available to this setup.

On the other hand, running low and slow with the setup you have is fine once you have some spirits saved up to enjoy while you wait..[ELECTRIC LIGHT BULB]


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I suggest you ignore this advice, bhh. It is based on the Magic Boiling Myth and does not work.

It's actually based on the operator having enough sense to know how to use it and how not to..I don't use the feedback for anything other than reaching and maintaining a temperature set point without pushing my run too hard. Besides, if you notice, I started that second paragraph with "my preferred method.." not " I suggest..."

If you are referring to the bit about the GFCI and cord connections, go get an electrical degree plus 12 years of industrial electrical experience and then come talk crap.


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[NZChris]

I don't use the feedback for anything other than reaching and maintaining a temperature set point without pushing my run too hard

This is the bit that doesn't work. What needs to be controlled is the output stream and that requires a constantly rising temperature, not a set point.

[rad14701]

If you are referring to the bit about the GFCI and cord connections, go get an electrical degree plus 12 years of industrial electrical experience and then come talk crap.

Calm down there, poncho...!!! No need un-necessarily getting you shorts in a bunch... Your signature doesn't state your credentials but, then again, I've met an awful lot of people who touted their qualifications that were dumb as a stump when it came to common sense... I've dealt with teams of engineers in the past that had zero common sense combined who had to have multiple meetings only to discover that my advice was 100% correct so credentials aren't everything... Just sayin...

As for using a PID to hold a temperature, as stated, that's not the proper way to power a still... Automation isn't the be all and end all, which we've also had to prove to engineers and automation geeks... I'll put one of my simple phase angle controllers against a fancy automated system any day and I'll make as good and most likely better spirits with it...

There's no room here for folks who just want to fly off the handle over the most petty of issues... We all have a common goal and that is to promote safe and successful home distillation of spirits, and perhaps a little camaraderie, leaving credentials and egos at the door...

[UrToopid]

I don't use the feedback for anything other than reaching and maintaining a temperature set point without pushing my run too hard

This is the bit that doesn't work. What needs to be controlled is the output stream and that requires a constantly rising temperature, not a set point.

Well, I did say "at a minimum" these set point controllers can be configured to run a profile.. Or simply increase your set point by one degree per jar, or every two etc. .. I was trying to keep it simple.


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[NZChris]

Installing, and controlling with, an SCR voltage regulator is simple.