Electrical connection at boiler? Suggestions?

[mash rookie]

I have had my MK controller since July and I am just now getting around to welding a fitting on my boiler for a screw in 4500 watt element.

Any suggestions for a super clean way to box in the connection at the element?

I am considering using a single gang metal box drilled for the element then using two gaskets. It would alow me to have a loom clamp but it sounds clunky.

[Prairiepiss]

I used heatshrink over the end of it. Been thinking of getting some boxes. But thought they would be clunky to? But less likely to mess one of the elements up moving it around.

[Poitin]

I have had my MK controller since July and I am just now getting around to welding a fitting on my boiler for a screw in 4500 watt element.

Any suggestions for a super clean way to box in the connection at the element?

I am considering using a single gang metal box drilled for the element then using two gaskets. It would alow me to have a loom clamp but it sounds clunky.

mash rookie,

If you want something like this:


Then go to here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow. There are eight pages (at bottom) with pictures and equipment listed. Most of the supplies could probably be picked up at Home Depot.
Even if you don’t use it exactly might give you some ideas.

Go n-éirí an t-ádh leat
Poitin

[Prairiepiss]

MR what do your fittings look like that you welded in? My problem is that mine stick out 3/4" then the element sticks out another 1 1/2" or so. I don't want to have a box standing 3/4" off the keg. The way it would if I drilled it and used the element to mount it. I would rather have it flush against the keg. But I'm not sure how to mount it? Maybe clamp it to the fitting somehow? And then I would need at least a 2 1/2" deep box. And a normal electric junction box just ain't that purdy either? Would a plastic one be ok with the heat from the keg? I like how they look and seal. A lot cleaner then the metal ones.

[mash rookie]

MR what do your fittings look like that you welded in? My problem is that mine stick out 3/4" then the element sticks out another 1 1/2" or so. I don't want to have a box standing 3/4" off the keg. The way it would if I drilled it and used the element to mount it. I would rather have it flush against the keg. But I'm not sure how to mount it? Maybe clamp it to the fitting somehow? And then I would need at least a 2 1/2" deep box. And a normal electric junction box just ain't that purdy either? Would a plastic one be ok with the heat from the keg? I like how they look and seal. A lot cleaner then the metal ones.

Crap. I wish I had read your post a couple of hours ago. I did not occur to me to countersink the fitting into the keg. I welded on one half of a 1" stainless coupler. It sticks out about an inch too. Damn, I could have slipped it in with about ¼” reveal and got a good weld pluss It would have been level instead of the angle at the bottom of my old style keg.

Plastic would not work but the aluminum out door boxes are pretty clean looking. I could weld a couple of 1/4" nuts on to the keg. You would only get a couple of turns but as long as you size your screws correctly.

I am going to check out the web site Poltin suggested. Maybe I will get some ideas.

I could always just put a plug in the damn thing and keep using propane.

[Prairiepiss]

Sory I should have posted that earlier. I wanted to but I didn't have the time to.

[cob]

search "project box" on the web and there are many choices, including some nice stainless boxes.
http://www.takachi-enclosure.com/data/p ... nless.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow . cob

[Prairiepiss]

Hey MR what if we instead of drilling just a hole in the back of the box. How about cutting it out leaving some tabs that we can bend into the box. Then use a hose clamp to clamp it to the fitting on the keg?

And a stainless box would be killer. If I could aford one.

[rad14701]

Hey MR what if we instead of drilling just a hole in the back of the box. How about cutting it out leaving some tabs that we can bend into the box. Then use a hose clamp to clamp it to the fitting on the keg?

And a stainless box would be killer. If I could aford one.

That's what I was just thinking...

[mash rookie]

WW sent me a pm pic of his connection. Kind of like a loom clamp his box squeezed the coupler to hold the box. A nice no weld application.

I am going to look at the aluminum boxes next week. If I find a loom clamp that can be used backwards on the coupler that may be an easy solution if not I will weld nuts to my keg.

ugh I said nuts. Oh nuts.

[cob]

mash rookie if you are doing your own tig just fab up a box to suit your needs, weld it to your boiler, then you won't have to weld your nuts. cob

[Prairiepiss]

mash rookie if you are doing your own tig just fab up a box to suit your needs, weld it to your boiler, then you won't have to weld your nuts. cob

This is what I was just thinking. I just so happen to have some SS plate that would work perfect. I see some keg modifications in my near future. I wanted to move the drain to the bottom anyway. Be a good time to knock it all out at the same time. Now if I could find me some SS 1" square tubing for some legs I would be set.

[mash rookie]

mash rookie if you are doing your own tig just fab up a box to suit your needs, weld it to your boiler, then you won't have to weld your nuts. cob

I do TIG but that would be a lot of work. Welding a couple of nuts on is five minutes. I would rather find a nice box that I can attach.

[kenfyoozed]

have you thought about going 2" tri clamp? i love triclamp stuff

[mash rookie]

Thanks Kenny but I have already welded the 1" coupler.

I picked up an aluminum waterproof box today. 2-1/2" deep. It will work. I wasn’t smart enough to remember to get the loom clamp or cover. Duh. But we do have a plan. Tomorrow when I am finishing some stainless welding I will tack a couple of 1/4-20 nuts to my boiler. I will cut the box back hole large enough to fit over my fitting and element and bolt it to the nuts.

You guys better be truthing me about going electric!!!

Actually I have wanted to do it for some time. Then when I built Muggles I realized that Glass still, open flame..hmmm. Get off your ass and install it. Not that I have not been plenty busy with my flute but it will be easier to run my glass Muggles without fear. I have 220 in my shop. No issues. Just wont weld when distilling.

I might take a nap though…

[Poitin]

WW sent me a pm pic of his connection. Kind of like a loom clamp his box squeezed the coupler to hold the box. A nice no weld application.

I am going to look at the aluminum boxes next week. If I find a loom clamp that can be used backwards on the coupler that may be an easy solution if not I will weld nuts to my keg.

"Prairiepiss wrote:
Hey MR what if we instead of drilling just a hole in the back of the box. How about cutting it out leaving some tabs that we can bend into the box. Then use a hose clamp to clamp it to the fitting on the keg?

Mash Rookie & Prairiepiss,
Did you finish your electrical connection at the boiler?
Any pictures on the final outcome if you finished?
Thanks

[mash rookie]

Mine turned out sweet. I'll post a pic in a couple of days for you,
MR

[Poitin]

Mine turned out sweet. I'll post a pic in a couple of days for you,
MR

THANKS!