Suggestions for variable hot-plate

[Captainfill]

Hello,

I'm looking for an electric heating element to use for the distillation process using a 30l stainless pot (similar to a dairy can) and a flute column. I am not sure exactly how much power I will need and which heating elements remain constantly heated and don't cycle like many electric stoves.

I will be operating with 120v so I won't be able to use anything industrial.

Please link your suggestions as well as a quick personal review if you have used it before. I am located in the US, so any retailer must be able to ship in the states.

Thank you much!

[rad14701]

Visit your local Home Depot or Lowes... Problem solved...

[NcHooch]

30 liters is gonna take you an awful long time to heat with 110V, Are you thinking about drilling a hole in the side of the pot for a water heater element? ...or are you thinking about a hotplate?
Typically the low powered hotplates (750 watt and less) are the only ones with the rheostats in em .

[Coaster]

.....I am not sure exactly how much power I will need and which heating elements remain constantly heated and don't cycle like many electric stoves.....

@ Captainfill,

Suggest visiting the “Parent Site” - link located on the top of Forum pages. On the Parent Site go to “Calcs” on the top of Parent Site page. Click on “Calcs From Rad14701”. Then review the “Heating Time To Temp” to get an idea of how many Watts or BTU’s you are going to need to heat your 7-gallon Still boiler ->

http://homedistiller.org/calcs/rad14701

You will need some type of ‘Controller’ similar to the “Mr P's 110v Harbor Freight Controller Duel Element setup” or “Phase Angle Control Modules” threads located in the “Must Read” New Distiller Reading Lounge to control an internal heating element->

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=46

Regards,
Coaster

[Captainfill]

Thank you Coaster and Hooch. Looking at the calculator with the actual time to heat up that size of a boiler is rather inefficient to me and because I am limited to 110, I should look elsewhere for a heating solution.

Ideally, I would go with an internal heating element, I think that that would be more efficient and limit the possibility of scorching the wash on the bottom. I've looked at a few pictures of the internal heating elements, but cannot see how they are fastened to the boiler whether it is by a seal and nut on the inside of the boiler, or if they are screwed into a threaded fitting on the boiler itself. If I can simply drill a hole and mount it, that seems like the smart way to go.

I'm also open to ready-made boilers with heating element, I have a 4" tri-clamp column and my budget would be around $500.

Thank you!

[wheresthereef]

I have two 1500 watt elements in mine. They are the copper screw in type. Cost about $8.00 each and are easy to change out. Just unscrew and screw in another. Can be bought on-line or at a plumbing store. I got 2 of these and two stainless steel fittings for them.

Got a stainless steel keg, took the keg and the fitings to a local welding shop (I can't do stainless). I told him where I wanted them. One about 4" off the bottom and one about 4" above that offset about a quarter way around the keg. He drilled the holes and welded in the wells. I took my keg home and hooked up the electric. The lower one is regulated and the upper one is unregulated.

I use both to bring it up to temp. Then I unplug the top one and run my still off the regulated one.

Element looks like this one.

Hope this helps.

[Captainfill]

Thanks, Reef, that does help.

What type of module do you control them with? I have seen some that just plug into a standard outlet straight from the element. I assume that is what you refer as regulated and unregulated.

Where did you get the fittings that you had welded on? Can they also be bought at a plumbing/hardware store?

Also, you are using a 1/2 keg, correct? I do imagine that with a 1/4 keg equivalent in size, one would do the trick.

Thank you

[Coaster]

@ Captainfill,

Perhaps viewing the below referenced Forum posting titled “Help Installing An Electric Element” will be helpful to you ->

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 15&t=18046

Regards,
Coaster

[Coaster]

@ Captainfill,

Suggest considering making a PSR-25 based Phase Angle Controller. Refer to Forum Member MuleKicker Sun Feb 12, 2012 2:30PM posting in the “Phase Angle Control Modules” thread located in the New Distiller Reading Lounge. MuleKicker’s posting provides a pictorial drawing schematic for the build. Referrer to Form Member’s Pamulli Sat Jul 31, 2010 3:39PM posting for a parts source for the build ->

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 3#p6966044

Regards,
Coaster

[wheresthereef]

Thanks, Reef, that does help.

What type of module do you control them with? I have seen some that just plug into a standard outlet straight from the element. I assume that is what you refer as regulated and unregulated.

I plug the top element straight into the socket(unregulated). The bottom element plugs into a home made phase angle SSR-25 controller that many of the folks on here use.

Where did you get the fittings that you had welded on? Can they also be bought at a plumbing/hardware store?

Yes, got them at a local plumbing store. 304 stainless steel barstock coupler is what I used. Granger, Global, etc will have them also.

Also, you are using a 1/2 keg, correct? I do imagine that with a 1/4 keg equivalent in size, one would do the trick.

Thank you

Yes, I'm 1/2 barrel.

Personally, I think I would still put in 2 elements. Probably at the same level on oposite sides. That way you'll get it up to temp in no time.

Also, if you do decide to do it with a hot plate. You'll want to get a 1500 watter and you will still need to build (or buy) a controller to regulate it, as most hotplates work like a stove cycling on and off. Which you don't want. You want steady heat.

[Prairiepiss]

If you plan to use a keg. A hot plate will be very inefficient. They work best with a flat bottom pot. A keg doesn't have a flat bottom. It is domed so contact area will be very small.

Note about running two elements.

You will need to run them on two separate circuits. By this I mean you can't plug them into the same outlet. And the two outlets you do use will need to be on two different circuit breakers. One circuit can't handle the amp draw of two elements.

You can read more in my thread about how I built mine.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 46&t=28179

And I don't know of many hardware stores that sell stainless steel fittings? You will need to have a stainless fitting to weld to the keg. If that's the route you want to take. It should be stainless anyway.

[Captainfill]

Thank you all for the help. Here is my plan of attack and let me know if this sounds like a good setup.

I've found a 25l boiler with a 4" top ferrule, 2" bottom ferrule and another 1" bottom ferrule for a drain. I will either buy or machine a piece for the 2" ferrule that will adapt to a standard 1500 watt element.

I'll use a variac to control the output to the element - essentially a thermostat to control the temperature of the boil. I would use 2 elements, but I do not have separate breakers nearby and I don't want to put too much stress on a single 20amp let alone the power of water pumps.

To me this makes the most sense, the efficiency of an immersion heater and simplicity of a variac controller. With the ordering and liability of making my own voltage controller I figured that I should opt for the real thing!

Thank you all again for the help, I've got a plan of attack now.

[wheresthereef]

Since you're on a 20 amp breaker. You could go as high as a 120v - 2000w element. Full blast would be just under 17 amps. There are also 1650w(13.75A) and 1700w(14.25A) elements. That would give you anywhere from 10%-25% more power. If and when my elements wear out, I will be switching to 1650's. Can't really go higher because I only have 15 amp breakers.