My SSR

crazyk78 · Post by **crazyk78** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 1:47 pm

Hi All.

Please only post SSR related info in here...there is tons and tons of info around on other heating control.

I've bought the bits and pieces for an SSR and it doesn't seem to work...just wanted your opinions.

When I apply power, it doesn't blow up....phew! but I only get 240V on the output and it doesn't control with the pot.

Do these need a load to work?

What am I doing wrong...I've attached a photo for assistance.

Bob Loblaw · Post by **Bob Loblaw** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:15 pm

Looks like it should work. SSR appears correct. Whats the ohm rating on the pot?

Only thing I see different than the way I did it is that I ran the ground from the power wire into one side of the heat sink and out the other side, and I didn't ground the pot like you have.

crazyk78 · Post by **crazyk78** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:25 pm

Hi Bob,

Its a 2W 480KOhm pot.

I don't know it's doing my head it.

Does it need to be connected to a load?

Cheers,

Bob Loblaw · Post by **Bob Loblaw** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:30 pm

Oh wait. you are reading volts. Pot changes amperage. If you have 240v, you will get 240v out. Check your amp reading (you need an ammeter). Amps x volts = watts. That's how you control wattage to the element

crazyk78 · Post by **crazyk78** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:33 pm

Oh ! haha

Ok I'll test with the multimeter tonight.

Cheers, much appreciated.

sambedded · Post by **sambedded** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:52 pm

pot controls both Amps and Volts. you just need to connect a load. For testing you can use any wattage incandescent lamp bulb

Bob Loblaw · Post by **Bob Loblaw** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:53 pm

sambedded wrote:pot controls both Amps and Volts. you just need to connect a load. For testing you can use any wattage incandescent lamp bulb

Amps and watts. not voltage.

sambedded · Post by **sambedded** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:57 pm

Bob Loblaw wrote:
sambedded wrote:pot controls both Amps and Volts. you just need to connect a load. For testing you can use any wattage incandescent lamp bulb

Amps and watts. not voltage.

Read about Ohm law. You can't change an Amps for the same load without altering voltage.

Post by **rad14701** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:59 pm

Yes, it needs a load in order to function properly... For voltage just using a light bulb will work but that doesn't give it an amperage workout...

sambedded · Post by **sambedded** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:02 pm

rad14701 wrote:. For voltage just using a light bulb will work but that doesn't give it an amperage workout...

It's safer to test on low amp load first. Then if everything is OK connect a full load.

muddog · Post by **muddog** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:02 pm

Multimeters are worthless for testing SSRs. The best way to test an SSR is with a light bulb. An SSR needs to be load tested.
http://www.crydom.com/en/Tech/Newslette ... %20SSR.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
muddog

Post by **acfixer69** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:07 pm

I can't see all the no's but that SSR could read voltage not resistance.
@ bob my ssr changes both amps and voltage. Does need a load to read anything useful.

AC

Post by **rad14701** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:12 pm

acfixer69 wrote:I can't see all the no's but that SSR could read voltage not resistance.
@ bob my ssr changes both amps and voltage. Does need a load to read anything useful.

AC

It says 2W 470K Ohms...

Bob Loblaw · Post by **Bob Loblaw** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:38 pm

acfixer69 wrote:I can't see all the no's but that SSR could read voltage not resistance.
@ bob my ssr changes both amps and voltage. Does need a load to read anything useful.

AC

Well, then perhaps I have wired my voltmeter incorrectly. My ammeter shows a drop when I turn down pot, voltmeter doesn't. algebra seems to suggests that (per aforementioned ohms law...) if the pot changes both at once then the impact on watts would be exponential (e.g. if V*A=W then 0.25V * 0.25A = .0525W) but I am clearly not an electrician...

sambedded · Post by **sambedded** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:57 pm

P(Watt) = U(volt)*U(volt) / R(Ohm) = I(Amp) * I(Amp) * R (Ohm)

Where R is resistance of your heating element.

Bob Loblaw · Post by **Bob Loblaw** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 4:17 pm

sambedded wrote:P(Watt) = U(volt)*U(volt) / R(Ohm) = I(Amp) * I(Amp) * R (Ohm)

Where R is resistance of your heating element.

Hmmm. Physics was a long time ago! It appears I've been carrying around the DC formula for Ohms law all these years and applying liberally. Misses that resistance piece. I stand corrected, now to figure out how I effed up my voltmeter...

crazyk78 · Post by **crazyk78** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 4:31 pm

Thanks heaps guys....well they're not going to let me out at lunch time so I'll test with a load tonight and let you know.

Cheers and appreciate the feedback. (from all the wiring diagrams I've seen I think it's wired correctly.)

Also, will I need a cooling fan in there if running a 4800W element?
I do have paste between the SSR and the heatsink.

sambedded · Post by **sambedded** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 4:57 pm

crazyk78 wrote: Also, will I need a cooling fan in there if running a 4800W element?
I do have paste between the SSR and the heatsink.

If you mount your box vertically (for example hang it on a wall) and make enough holes in walls below and above the heatsink you are good without a fan.

crazyk78 · Post by **crazyk78** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 5:10 pm

Ah yes I understand to get the heat convection to go out the top of the box.

crazyk78 · Post by **crazyk78** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 12:00 pm

Just an update.... I tested it with a fan ( didn't have a light bulb) and it worked a treat.

The voltage didn't change either. Must be just the current

bellybuster · Post by **bellybuster** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 12:31 pm

crazyk78 wrote:Just an update.... I tested it with a fan ( didn't have a light bulb) and it worked a treat.

The voltage didn't change either. Must be just the current

the resistance is the only constant (somewhat) the voltage and amperage are tied together in relation to the resistance. The voltage didn't change because you must be reading it prior to the drop. Draw up a schematic of how you're wired and we can help you get it right. Or, there are a ton of schematics already here on the site.

crazyk78 · Post by **crazyk78** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 12:34 pm

Hey belly. It works fine how I wired it.

The fan came on at about 50% and I could ramp it up and down from there. My understanding is AC needs a spike current to start so I guess this is why it started at 50%.

Post by **rad14701** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 12:39 pm

A fan uses an inductive load as opposed to a resistive load... A high powered light bulb, which has a resistive load, might give different readings than the fan... Or, as mentioned, the voltage issue could be a matter of where you are taking your reading from...

crazyk78 · Post by **crazyk78** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 12:39 pm

Oh

I'll go buy a socket today.

Your too smart rad.

bellybuster · Post by **bellybuster** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 1:54 pm

Do you not have a boiler yet?? Just hook it to your element.

Jolly John · Post by **Jolly John** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 2:57 am

Found this schemetic, might be of use.
http://postimg.org/image/85j8ynzn1/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

bellybuster · Post by **bellybuster** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 5:32 am

Jolly John · Post by **Jolly John** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 6:47 am

bellybuster wrote:
image.jpg

Cheers Bellybuster.

crazyk78 · Post by **crazyk78** » Tue Apr 22, 2014 6:44 pm

It's all good in the end guys...It just needs a load to work.

In any case, I also tested it with my corded drill. Hooked the drill up trigger in, then dialled up the knob.

Whalla! now I have a variable drill !

Home Distiller

My SSR

My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR

Re: My SSR