Couple of questions and Yes ive read and searched

[BackwoodsBBQ]

Well being a fng here I figured id get a couple things out there. One there is so much information here it can be hard to find information on one particular aspect of something, Ive got a couple of good ideas for this and will save those for a another time though. I am sure the info i want is here but sometimes there is so much conflicting info that its hard to determine the right one.

Example my question number one,

On a vm still head is there a port to atmosphere? Ive seen plans and stills here with and without though i think the ones without just neglect to mention or diagram a vent?
And also what size for atmosphere vent and does it protrude down into the cap at all?

Still I am currently working on is a vm with the boka style lm take off for heads ect basically its easy to do and gives me more versatility.

Question 2 when determining height I know there in no advantage to going more than 30 x diameter but is that including the condenser? Or just up to take off port?
Height is not an issue for me this is going to be for the purest neutral i can get. And im not worried about production speed either. Money isnt an issue here i just want to make the best that i can.


and last one 3
The condenser coil. Double wound, cold finger, ect ect if get this right the more cooling area the more reflux the higher rate of out put? Or is it more relfux cleaner product? I mean i can create something that cools extremely well with about 10 times the surface area of the coil method but is there a point to it?

[Usge]

Backwoods....

Yes, they are open to atmosphere on the top....(or has vent holes drilled if using a cap/cover of some kind). The reflux condenser just sits in the top where it knocks the rising vapor down (ie, keeps it from escaping to atmosphere) or condenses. So, anytime you are putting heat to the pot...you want your condenser 'on', or the vapor will just go out the top. How much vapor there is rising up the column is a function of the heat/power you are putting to the boiler. How much vapor your condenser can handle/knockdown is determined by it's water-flow thruput (should be at least 1L per min on average). So, that's something you can test. Whether the condensed vapor goes back down the column as reflux, or out the take off is determined by your take-off valve (closed or open).

The measurements given for optimal height on these is usually for packing area (ie, up to takeoff) and does not include condenser height. I leave it to others to say exactly what that height is....(I think it's commonly more than 30 you suggested..ie., more like 36-42"). But, I'll let others chime in on that to confirm or give opinions. If height isn't an issue...it won't hurt to go a little more...but it can also get to a point or diminishing returns and it eventually can get unwieldy/top heavy. So, there's some trade-off there. But, again, I'll leave it to others to suggest optimal packing height.

[BackwoodsBBQ]

Backwoods....

Yes, they are open to atmosphere on the top....(or has vent holes drilled if using a cap/cover of some kind). The reflux condenser just sits in the top where it knocks the rising vapor down (ie, keeps it from escaping to atmosphere) or condenses. So, anytime you are putting heat to the pot...you want your condenser 'on', or the vapor will just go out the top. How much vapor there is rising up the column is a function of the heat/power you are putting to the boiler. How much vapor your condenser can handle/knockdown is determined by it's water-flow thruput (should be at least 1L per min on average). So, that's something you can test. Whether the condensed vapor goes back down the column as reflux, or out the take off is determined by your take-off valve (closed or open).

The measurements given for optimal height on these is usually for packing area (ie, up to takeoff) and does not include condenser height. I leave it to others to say exactly what that height is....(I think it's commonly more than 30 you suggested..ie., more like 36-42"). But, I'll let others chime in on that to confirm or give opinions. If height isn't an issue...it won't hurt to go a little more...but it can also get to a point or diminishing returns and it eventually can get unwieldy/top heavy. So, there's some trade-off there. But, again, I'll leave it to others to suggest optimal packing height.

ok that's what i though on the atmosphere vent, and when i said thirty i meant 30 times the diameter of the column not 30" i wasn't really clear there.

So anyway hows this sound a 60" x 2" column with 2, 2"x1"centering rings chore boy stuffed topped with a 2x2x2" tee to a 10" long 3/8ths tubing double wound condenser feeding out a liebig that's 36" long with a internal diameter of 1/2 with 1"sleeve> The 1/2" internal pipe is wound with some old flattened (ie truck ran over coil i got it for 10$) 1/2 tubing to circulate the water once per 2" of travel or 18 times before it exits the liebig. Also considered twisting a piece of shaved down half inch copper bar stock to twist the vapor/liquid out too. The 2x2x2 tee immediately gets reduced to 1" then ss gate valve then down to 1/2 " before entering the liebig. Liebig is angled down at 45, and feeds a parrot that i will have to put some pics of up made it today and did some fancy engraving on it. Also will have a cm system right under the coil for the heads ect, when i get into that.

Hope that made sense. Been working on the parrot all day and well then it was time to taste a batch a from friend. Smoothest corn mash made i have ever tasted just a hint of the molasses remaining with a touch of smoky oak not too much bite, just enough to let you know it wasn't water and it proofed out about 110. Half a jar later time to take a break and sit on the couch for a few, and spend some time here.

[Usge]

Backwoods,...I'll leave it to others more experienced with reflux type stills to comment on your design. But, just from a quick read, It looks in the ballpark to me in so far as basics of what you listed. Only thing I know (logistically) is that a 60" column can be heavy. So, pay attention to how you gonna attach it/secure it...so it doesn't warp your connection to the pot or leak. Be easy on the sippin and workin . Otherwise, enjoy!

[BackwoodsBBQ]

Backwoods,...I'll leave it to others more experienced with reflux type stills to comment on your design. But, just from a quick read, It looks in the ballpark to me in so far as basics of what you listed. Only thing I know (logistically) is that a 60" column can be heavy. So, pay attention to how you gonna attach it/secure it...so it doesn't warp your connection to the pot or leak. Be easy on the sippin and workin . Otherwise, enjoy!

Oh didnt start the sippin till i was just running the engraver, Old lady said if its gonna be in the house or the yard its gonna look good so Im doing the whole thing up in My old Kentucky home, scroll work. Speaking of which instead of insulating the column normally would putting a piece of 2 1/2" over the column work to insulate it from airflow and i can still make it a looker?

*edit also about the attaching making a stainless steel 15 gal box out of 3/8ths sheet. For the flange on the column im trying to find some 1/4 or half copper sheet that i dont have to buy in quantity and spend an arm and a leg for, Got a tig welder and can weld copper, so flange will be welded directly to bottom of column which is type L so pretty thick. And i can always add support arms.

[Usge]

That's a good question there backwoods. Seems like an aweful pricey way to insulate a column and not seven sure if it work as good...given it's got an air pocket. You could always use thicker copper pipe to start with for the column...run it ..and see how it does without insulation first. Problem is..thicker copper is gonna be heavier. And doubled wall would be even more so. If it were me..I'd start out simple and just build something functional that you can work on/mod. You bound to find things you wanna change after you use it for a while. Then, after you get it refined down..all the little mods, etc., you want to do....build another one that you put more time into..make purdy, etc. .

[Samohon]

Yeah, as Usge pointed out, damn good question...

I dont see why you could'nt get a length on 3" Stainless pipe and insulate the inside between the copper and stainless with that Hi Temp spray insulation. Mrs Sam made the VM an insulated jacket for the column with Hi-Temp insulation covered with heavy black cotton also fastened with velcro straps... Looks very elegant...

ps: Remember, anything you do should NOT upset the running of the design and make sure the atmosphere vent is clear...

[Kentucky shinner]

Great question.. Looks like I am alittle late though..

[Samohon]

Great question.. Looks like I am alittle late though..

We always save the best till last KS...

[BackwoodsBBQ]

Thats again what i thought just wanted a little confirmation. So as long as there is no thermal disruption to the column all is good. Its coming along now i think i went overkill on my liebig though, 36 long half inch inner one inch outer with spiral wound. Cant go too cool with the liebig right?

[rad14701]

Cant go too cool with the liebig right?

Well, you could... If it is too cold at the vapor inlet you could get shock cooling which would potentially cause vapor collapse before the condenser or just inside it... This could cause huffing... Another thing to consider is that some folks believe in having the spirits exit the liebig on the warm to hot side so that any lower alcohols remaining in the spirits evaporate rather than being collected... All depends on how you look at things...

[BackwoodsBBQ]

Thanks again everyone, many jars and days later, and many hours spent reading here, many great nights with family and friends later, and I owe a great big thank you to alot of folks here.


Here's one to you guys and one for our fathers before,